but the rains have come hard, making walking the muddy, cow shit and trash strewn streets a bit of a challenge. People here take it in stride, they have to, they know the drill, keep to the less dirty narrow pavement as much as buses, trucks, cars and motos allow, wade the mud and poop when you have to, rinse your sandaled feet in the least muddy water you find, carry an umbrella at all times; it’s a hard rain that falls brother.
We’re in an area called Pallavaram, a mix of mostly low end hotels, open markets, mixed businesses, a few beggars, wandering shitting cows, mostly mud streets (the monsoon just hit) and the constant noise of all manner of vehicle horns, and a few bicycle bells.
We rode out of Leh, a long downhill we would pay for later, with growing excitement and more than a little trepidation. Facing us were four passes, one of them the second highest in the world, several days between 15,000 …
We just returned to Leh from a week in the Himalayas/Karakorum range located in the disputed territory between India, Pakistan and China, protected by the most friendly Indian army. On the way we cycled over the highest motorable road in …