How Did We Get Here?

Lizard brain eye candy

How did we get here? I don’t mean just the pandemic, or the great recession we only recently came out of, or the great depression we may be going into. i mean that America doesn’t work anymore. Not in any meaningful way. Not in a sustainable way.

We’re in the middle of a pandemic like mankind hasn’t seen in 100 years, and yet we still can’t get it together to fight this thing. Oh, scientists are working on a vaccine, a year away maybe. They’re working long sleepless nights and thinking always about the goal, the magic bullet. Not so much the rest of us, the populous, the politicians and preachers; we’re at each others throats looking to blame someone, someone else. Some wear masks and wash hands and clean clean clean. Others wave the flag and brandish guns and declare the freedom has been lost, because governments have finally failed them utterly, shuttering their businesses, depriving them of Nascar or reality programing.

How did we get here? Darwin failed us. Well no, not Darwin, but our brains. Our lizard brain has well prepared for for, ah well not much: simple tool and fire making maybe, escaping from the saber tooth tiger, reproducing, gaining protein for our clan. Lording over others. But its singular purpose is acquisition, and it can easily overpower the thinking brain if we let it. Modern Americans are glad to let it do its thing, and it’s damaging our society, and our real economy, perhaps beyond recovery.

First some perspective, some history. Our brains went into overdrive when homo sapiens created agriculture. The thinking  part of our brain began to grow, not from physical challenges, but from mental challenges, opportunities. We learned to teach, not just copy, and each generation improved on the last. Then we discovered certain grunts, sounds shaped by our tongues and lips, could be given meaning. Language evolved and it allowed teaching to evolve exponentially. And our brain grew in size and in ability to make inferences across time, to imagine the future and invent tools and systems to shape our environment. Social evolution took over from physical evolution. But we retained our lizard brain. We don’t need it much anymore, but some of us have learned to use it to control and direct others of us. Not so good.

Our lizard brain is the never-enough part of us. Never enough food, never enough sex, never enough spear points or digging sticks. That served us well a million years ago when life was brutal and short. We didn’t live long enough for the acquisitive desire to get us into trouble. Now we do.

Over millennia we became amazingly well suited to science and used it to become by far the most powerful species on the planet. We acquired so much physical wealth, grain, oxen, carts and horses, spears and gunpowder, that we had to invent money to manage the transfer and control of this wealth.  All well and good, until some of us began to think only of money, not where it came from, or whose labor, We began to trade in pieces of paper instead of manufactured goods or food. We disassociated well-being with how many, or what, pieces of paper, or things, we own.

We trade the pieces of paper for huge caves, uh houses, with a bath and a half per household member, and two televisions, a robot that listens for our every whim, transfers some of those, now digital, pieces of paper to a warehouse somewhere and our joy arrives the next day. But the new appliance, set of dishes soon lose appeal and are put into storage; pieces of digital paper forgotten.

But they still have a cost.  The money has to be replaced with labor, time, life, so we can accumulate more unnecessary objects that we soon forget. Lizard brain. We trade life for things. Sometimes we trade life for big things, like the house big enough for a dozen people, for two, or one. This requires a wonderful thing called debt. Debt allows us to have what the lizard brain desperately wants instantly instead of waiting for the money to be earned. This wonderful new thing, debt, requires an institution or person called a bank or lender to go between the owner of the house to the buyer of the house. For this the bank keeps a not-so-small, though it looks that way to the borrower’s lizard brain that is only thinking how wonderful it will be to live in the new house, portion of the borrowed money. This portion, through the magic of compound interest, can double the cost of the house. But the lizard brain ignores this and overrules the thinking brain. Of course we need our cave, er house, for shelter, but perhaps not one for a dozen. But the lizard brain doesn’t think like that; more is always better. 

Back to the pandemic. How are we going to pay for this, who’s going to figure a magic way to wish away the piles of debt we’ve accumulated as a group because no single person can think away the foolishness of easy money. Who is going to buy this debt? You. One way or another. Sooner or later. And you have your own debt load to carry. Is it heavy yet? Do you have enough stuff yet? But I just got a big tax cut you say. I can spend that or use it to get the bank to lend me more. And the big debt. The one we all owe?  

With the advent of mass media, and focus groups, and psychological research, all purposed to get your lizard brain to override the thinking brain. Soon the modern economy comes to depend on the lizard brains of millions to stay focused on getting and spending. Consumption is god. In the New Testament Jesus only became angry once. He was angry at the money-changers, the bankers, in the temple. The perviors of debt, preying on the lizard brains of His people. That’s why for many years Christianity did not allow debt. I challenge you to find a modern of the faith who would disallow debt. Times change. Of course we do need the institutions of debt in the modern world. The U.S. need massive amounts of debt to fight WWII, How much government debt, corporate debt and personal debt is reasonable, necessary, good. We don’t seem to be capable of asking that question. We just listen to the lizard brain, and want more. 

And politics? A healthy society? Well those are a different story.

Asianbookie: Panduan Lengkap Bermain Taruhan Online Secara Aman

Jika Anda adalah seorang penggemar judi bola dan sedang mencari cara untuk bermain taruhan online secara aman, maka Asianbookie adalah pilihan yang sangat tepat. Dalam artikel ini, kita akan mengupas tuntas tentang bagaimana Anda bisa memanfaatkan situs taruhan seperti Asianbookie …

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Happy Canada Day, July 1

Americas very best friend in the World is our neighbor to the north, Canada. We don’t always treat her with the respect due the second largest country in the world. Rich in resources and diverse in cultures, she is held in high reguard everywhere, yet too often ignored by the United States.

Beginning in 1997 we bicycled the lower provinces over three summers, a total of 15,000 kilometers, or perhaps I should write kilometres. We got a feel for the imensity of the country, but mostly we experienced the warmth, hospitality, and fun-loving ways of the people. 

Someday we will do complete page on our Canada travels, but for now, Happy birthday! We love you.

Eddie McMaster at a firehouse Ceikidh

I’m An American

I’d just left a medical appointment when I saw a young woman pushing a stroller in the rain. She was near a bus stop, but something made me stop. Maybe it was her bright African dress setting off, her lovely deep black skin, or the cute toddler she pushed, or my memories of Africa. I rolled down the window, “Do you have far to go?”

She quickly handed me a piece of wet paper with the name of a clinic and a simple map. It was five miles away, with a bus change. “Have go here. Have boy there 8:45.” It was 8:40.

“I’ll take you.” We loaded the stroller in the tiny back space of our Geo Trakker. I called the office to tell them she would be late for the appointment, put it on speaker so she could say her name, and they assured her she could be late.

During the drive we talked. Her English was quite good. She is a refugee from South Sudan, via a camp in Kenya.

I said, “Welcome to America. I am happy you are here.”

“You are very kind,” she said.

“I’m an American,” I said.

I’m old enough to enjoy looking at young women without guilt, and she was the most beautiful I’ve seen in a very long time. Her son was cute, animated and had curious bright eyes. My rainy day turned sunny.

“God bless you,” she said, ” He will reward you.”

I don’t believe in a god who protects or punishes, but I will treasure that blessing for a very long time.

Goodbye Australia, Again

I am several posts behind, but will catch up soon. When this is published we will be somewhere over the Pacific, after an adventurous and sublime three months crossing half of the red center outback by bicycle, and from Indian Ocean to Pacific by vehicle. The photo Claire saying goodbye at one of our favorite seaside camps. This is our third goodbye to Australia. Will we come again?

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Return to Australia; Unfinished Business

We rode The Great Central Road dirt track (one of Australia’s longest) across The Great Victoria Desert in the direction of Perth. 1600 kilometers of dirt with very little in the way of services, food or water. We had five weeks of outback cycling and camping adventure, followed by a tiny van road trip from the Indian Ocean to the Pacific Ocean revisiting old haunts, and both new and old friends.

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Yellow Parachute Test

Several years ago our friend, and inventor, Ed Rios made a prototype drag parachute for tandem use. His stoker, Jane, wisely refused to participate in the test, and of course we volunteered. Stoker Claire wore and deployed the chute which, after a bit of a jerk on deployment, worked to bring our speed to reasonable levels on a descent of Mt. Lemmon just outside of Tucson, Arizona. We loved it! It would need to be bigger for touring less smooth roads, but for day rides, perfect. Ed, how about making it double as a tent fly/tarp?

Ken Steinhoff; Photographer, Story-teller, Road-warrior

Ken Steinhoff and I worked as photojournalists at the Athens Messenger in the late 1960’s. He stayed in the newspaper business, but got bumped up to a desk jockey job, I went on to other things. In retirement Ken went back to what he loves most, telling stories about people, places and history. He posts most of these at http://www.capecentralhigh.com/ We recently got together in Athens and spent a day driving around Southeast Ohio, trying to remember sites of some of our old stories, and catching up. Ken’s new van interior resembles the Volkswagen Squareback he wore out on those same roads. The only difference is it’s fitted with the latest in digital equipment instead of short wave and scanners and the best digital cameras. Oh, and there is more of the driver, and he has less hair than I remember. I’ve aged my share too. Ken has projects planned to keep him busy for the next forty-five years. I hope the road warrior has as many years as he needs. He does really good work. Check out that site.DSCF0527

Highest Road in the World by Tandem Bicycle: into Central Asia and Return over the Great Himalaya Range

Ride our tandem with us over the highest road pass in the world (18,380 feet) from South Asia into Central Asia. Pedal thirteen days across The Great Himalaya Range (passes to 17,558 feet) from exotic Tibetan Ladakh in the far north. Take a train to far south India and then bicycle with us from the Arabian Sea on the west to the Bay of Bengal on the east. Stories, photos, videos and music.

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A Walk in a Chennai, India Neighborhood

but the rains have come hard, making walking the muddy, cow shit and trash strewn streets a bit of a challenge. People here take it in stride, they have to, they know the drill, keep to the less dirty narrow pavement as much as buses, trucks, cars and motos allow, wade the mud and poop when you have to, rinse your sandaled feet in the least muddy water you find, carry an umbrella at all times; it’s a hard rain that falls brother.

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Walking in an Indian City: Chennai, India

We’re in an area called Pallavaram, a mix of mostly low end hotels, open markets, mixed businesses, a few beggars, wandering shitting cows, mostly mud streets (the monsoon just hit) and the constant noise of all manner of vehicle horns, and a few bicycle bells.

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On our way to India

Applause, Zippy ready for India

Applause, Zippy ready for India

We leave Tucson today for a few months in India. We begin in Ladakh, tight between Pakistan and China, in the Tibetan cultural, and landscape land. We start in Leh, in an 11,000 ft. valley in the Himalayas.

We’ll hang out exploring temples while we acclimatize, then test some passes, and ourselves. We’ll stay about a month in the mountains and then descend into the plains where we may take a train to avoid the most populated areas, and go to the far south. We’ll be working on stories for Desert Leaf.

We have a one-way ticket, so we don’t know where we’ll fly home from. It’s nice not to know. We don’t have a phone. We should have internet fairly often and we’ll post here.

The preparation craziness is done, so now we can allow ourselves to be excited. This is going to be fun. No doubt some physical and mental challenges along the way; hey, that’s what makes life interesting, memorable.

I expect my camera to get a workout: Ladakh is called The top of the World for good reason, with the highest motorable road, spectacular scenery, and the Tibetan people are colorful and friendly. We rode across the eastern part of Tibet on our In Search of Shangri-La trip, and want to see how the Tibetans are different here in their western-most range. We expect some differences: they are free in India, not so much in China.

South America, Trans Andes to Amazon Journey

Beginning in Lima, we wandered the Cordillera Blanca of northern Peru, stopping along the way at two seldom visited but important ancient pre-Inca sites. From the high Andes we dropped down into the Amazon basin to the end of the road at Yurimaguas. There we took local river boats down Rio Huallaga, Rio Maranon and Rio Amazonas to Manaus, where we traveled north out of the Amazon basin…

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Overland Expo 2013: Overland Travel; Different Strokes…

The Overland Expo is an international gathering of people who love overland travel in its many forms. The attendees range from newbies, interested in the latest kit (gear) and guided tours, to solo women who’ve traveled the continents on a motorcycle. As bicycle tourists with 43,000 miles around the world on our tandem, we share much with the hard core, and can remember being a newbie. The range of people and their changing passions is what this six minute mini-documentary is about

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Jorge Luis Borges, and The New Bohemians, on Life and Travel

While working on New Bohemians today I ran across this previous post. The quote from Jorge Luis Borges evoked memories: they flashed across my inner travel screen, not in pixels, but in soft amorphous remembered images, scents, labored lungs and heart, sweat soaked, cold shivers; wind cooled and sun warmed. Smiles from faces never to be seen again… I thought I’d re-post. Share.

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The Lost Hiker, Big Spring Canyon Loop

We’ve hiked most of the trails in Needles during our five week volunteer stint, but still hadn’t been able to replicate the hike we did a decade ago with Northwest friends, Jack and Mary Lange. We remembered that we had started and ended in Loop A of the campground

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Peekaboo and Rock Art Too; Seeking Rock Art in Needles District of Canyonlands

We went straight to the panel and I was blown away. All pictographs (paint on rock) are special, but this one is unique. The white pigment leaps out from the red sandstone in the reflected light of the overhang, and the string of dots (passing of the sun?) is something we haven’t seen before, though admittedly we are novices in the extreme in this rock art appreciation hobby.

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The Joint and Chesler Park in Canyonlands National Park

The Joint trail in Needles district of Canyonlands National Park is really a destination, a long crack between rock masses. It can be reached by a mix of trail loops ranging from ten to 15 miles. Any combination of these loops offers up a panoply of rock sculptures standing sentry over sage, juniper, pine meadows, perhaps even rock art if you go off trail (carefully!) a bit.

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Elephant Hill, Chesler Park, Canyonlands National Park

At Devils Kitchen we parked our bikes and did a five mile loop hike to Chesler Park, a large meadow area surrounded by red and cream sandstone spires, The Needles. For the entirety of the five miles we were surrounded by neck straining (both vertical and horizontal) vistas of, often anthropomorphic, specters of amazement. An Imax could not do the experience justice.

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Volunteers in Needles District of Canyonlands National Park

…a motorcyclist… got in just at dark. We let him set up his tent on our plot and had an interesting visit. He has done a bit of bicycle touring. He’s also a famous person who faces many challenges, and we feel it reasonable to respect his privacy for now. Claire said, “He may be famous, but our interaction taught me that, in a National Park, all are equal, and have the opportunity for renewal.”

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Opportunity at Needles District of Canyonlands National Park

While camping and hiking in Needles District of Canyonlands National Park, we mentioned to a ranger that we hoped to volunteer in a national park someday. The ranger was the volunteer coordinator. Two days later, boondocked at another spectacular site new to us, Muley Point, there was a message on our phone from Dorita. The volunteer slated for the fall stint had become ill; could we fill in for as little or as long as possible? We were just a few days from Tucson to begin our “normal” winter activities, but we do tend to grab opportunities, so we said yes. We begin as soon as we gather a month’s worth of food, add some winter clothes and blankets (thrift store) and return to Needles. Read the post to see a special panorama that shows how we like to get the most out of Turtle, our motorhome.

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The West. A deep breath of dry cool air.

We topped a small rise in western Kansas in Turtle. Morning light cast our shadow down a long straight road ahead of us. The colors were intense, the air sparkled, the land rolled off in wheat stubble and stone fence posts to a horizon uncut by haze. A railroad track led to a lone grain elevator. I took an involuntary deep breath; a gasp almost, of clean dry air. It’s been months since I’ve been able to see that far, months since the air was so clear, blue and white and wheat color, chocolate loam, the sky so big, so big.

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Diabetes Shoppe; Commercializing Slow Death

But there are two things, two very simple things the diabetes patient can do to slow and reverse diabetes. But I’m sure these are not sold in the Diabetes Shoppe. That is because they cost nothing, and therefore there is no profit in these two things:

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Joplin Missouri No One Ignores a Tornado Siren. One Year After Tornado

A young woman presses her phone to her ear, other hand covers her other ear. Tears gather, ran down her cheeks. She is a cosmetologist from the beauty parlor. My guess is she had been working in the WalMart a year before. The pad for it lays barren just in front of the new store, mute reminder to all who pass it.

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Bicycling the Great Allegheny Passage Trail

We startled at the flash of a photographer in the middle of the 3,000 foot tunnel before realizing it was Bob, giggling and testing the features of his new camera. Stopping at Frostburg for the night, we enjoyed some trail side pizza—delivered to Turtle in the parking lot—as Mike’s treat.

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Coming Home to St. Albans, West Virginia; Class of 1962

What I recognized most in my classmates is that the spark of life still shines. Dimmed in some by loss others by financial or health struggles, it still shines trough the twinkle in an eye, that crooked little smile, or wide grin I remember from so long ago.

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Bicycling to Spruce Knob, West Virginia

The reason for the smaller trees in the past was fire, no doubt caused by logging operations in the early part of the 20th century. The same fires burned Dolly Sods; both produced a unique landscape that is now returning to something akin to the original heavy forest cover. I’m not so sure it might be time to burn both again to regain the special character they had for nearly a century. I’m sure the idea would be controversial, but worth consideration..

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Jon Webb; Glint of Humor and Joy

At a distance I would not have recognized Jon had I passed him on the street, nor he I; forty plus years changes a body! But as I got closer, and the small talk proceeded, I began to notice bits of body language that hadn’t changed. As the memories of that time begat one story and another and another, suddenly there was a thing that touched me: an unmistakable Santa Klaus glint in his eye, a window into the humor and joy that is at the heart of the man; always has been, always will.

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Do it Now. Say Thank You. Thank you, Ken Steinhoff and Lila Steinhoff, and Mary too!

For the past twenty some years I’ve been doing something that brings me great satisfaction, something I recommend to you. Express your appreciation to those who have had an impact on your life. Begin with your parents, if you are so lucky to have one or both, your siblings, teachers, work mates, bosses, old friends, spiritual guides; anyone who had an impact on your life’s path. When you begin thinking about these people, you will be amazed, as was I, at the people who helped form your present self. It’s a wonderful process, one I don’t expect to fin

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Joplin Farmer’s Market and Missouri Blackberries

lunch we made in the parking lot after buying most of the makings at the market: corn, potatoes, whole wheat bread (with Claire home made hummus) cole slaw and tomatoes. Everything from the market was so fresh it was probably picked that morning It reminded me of my Mother’s summer lunches.

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Chanute is a Hoot!

After a 47 mile ride, only one section of a square with a tailwind. We decided we had earned a stop at a the Cardinal Drug soda fountain when we got back to Chanute. I got a big one, and it was a whopper. We had been disappointed earlier in the day when we discovered Erie, a small town where Claire had expected to find a new-to-us old fashioned soda fountain, had been torn down, a new building built and the fountain was now just a non-working display at the new high school. This is happening more and more often. The machinery, the marble tables, the back bars, still exist, but no longer have a purpose, and soon there will be no one alive who knows how to make a real soda or Green River. However, in Chanute, the two young girls waiting on us made excellent sodas (cherry for me, strawberry for Claire) at Cardinal Drugs, using the proper wrist action and a perfect balance of fruit, soda and whipped cream. Oh my. Nothing like it on a hot humid day. We had been there on a soda-fountain themed tour of Kansas several years, and we were happy to find this one unchanged.

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Where we camp.

In Greensburg, Kansas the city park, pool and ball fields, has several grass sites, with electricity. We enjoyed watching young baseball hopefuls practice, until darkness, thunder and lightning sent them home. They pay attention to the skies here: Greensburg was destroyed by a tornado a year after we had visited on a Zippy (our world traveling tandem) on a short soda fountain tour in 2006, another story, coming to this site soon!

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How Soon We Forget: Tibetans Still Die
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As each week passes word comes of another self-emulation in Tibetan lands of China. Many are young monks, and more and more are women. The grief they must feel for the slow loss of their culture is unimaginable to me. In our tandem travels across Tibet, we saw the government’s attempts at subjugating the Tibetan culture by smothering their lands with emigrants from the Han majority:

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Along the Rio Santa in Peru on a bicycle tour in South America
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Our narrow tandem tires cut into the dust and bounce and slide from one auto-tire slickened rock to another. We hope to avoid the shattered and sharpened hidden ones, capable of ruining our day, and one of our tires. We have one spare, and wonder if we should not have brought two. A few times a particularly viscous rock (by the second day I was attributing evil intent to certain rocks) would throw the front wheel toward the abyss, necessitating a dual bail out.

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Hotel Miami International Airport
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Sleeping in airports is all part of the experience these days if, like us, you go for the cheap ticket, no matter what. But lots of people get stuck for reasons of weather or airline screw-ups, so if you travel much, your day will come. Don’t worry. Just go with the flow and enjoy the experience. You’ll be surprised how comfortable you can get on your own little corner of carpet. We both slept for a few hours. We almost didn’t wake up in time for our required 5am check in time.

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Hit By A Car in Brazil? Don’t Call The Police

There have been a very few times in my life when time seemed to slow, if not stand still, and this was one. I could see the car headed for us broad side, in slow motion, too late to brake, to late for our acceleration to help. Neither the driver or us even considered involving the police: He because he was Brazilian and has known all his life to distrust them, and we because we had been warned not to involve police in anything, not even an injury accident.

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Guyana and the Conundrum that is Georgetown

I hurried Bob along, holding my oversized chocolate cookie, as the stranger called out “I won’t hurt you!” Suddenly, Bob turned sharply and defensively and soon learned the man was just asking for food. He gave over some of his cookie and the man thanked him. Now I know why we haven’t understood people who we thought were asking for money. I’ve been trying to figure out how people can afford to eat here and now I feel really bad that we’ve been ignoring them.

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Northern Brazil Savannah to Bom Fin

We finally had a great day on the bike, from Boa Vista to Bom Fin on the border with Guyana. I’d always thought all of Amazonian Brazil was jungle, or rather cut down jungle, second growth, but the north is wet savannah, much like the Gulf Country of Queensland, Australia. We saw more birds in one day of 130 kilometers here than we have seen in the entire trip so far, all but one or two new to our “life list.” There were stops every 30 to 40 kilometers with roadhouses, also much like Australia but closer, where we got much needed cold drinks to add to our load of water. It is very hot and humid here just north of the Equator, and we were soaking wet most of the time. Our final stop was nearly an hour so we could cool down to a reasonable level before going on.

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Manic Manaus, Brazil

The Amazon River here is deep enough to accommodate ocean going ships, and they crowd the port along with the upriver barcos (many sizes and configurations) that we traveled on. We’re not exactly sure of the source of all this economic activity in the mid-Amazon, but it is no longer virgin rainforest; rather, it’s small farms and second growth timber. There is oil exploration, but it is not visible from the river

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Sloth in Iquitos, Peru in the Amazonian Basin

Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm and Amazon Animal Orphanage, a short boat ride from Iquitos, where founder Gudrun Sperrer gave us a personal tour. Pupating caterpillars just aren’t as photogenic as a sleepy sloth. The sad story is that there is even a need for this place, a place where Peruvian children finally learn that big blue butterflies don’t come from little blue butterflies; shockingly, the metamorphosis of butterflies isn’t taught in school so Sperrer hosts field trips.

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Yurimaguas to Iquitos on Rio Maranon and Rio Amazon

Passengers are an afterthought on these life-lines to Iquitos and many small villages along the Amazon’s banks. You buy space, bring a hammock to hang crossways above the deck, vying politely for some personal space. The hammock is where you sleep, and sit during the day. We became very familiar with our hammocks over the 48, mas o menos, hours it took to Iquitos. We also met and “talked” to our close (very) neighbors and crew. One family was returning to Iquitos with a new baby, either four weeks old, or four months, we couldn’t discern,

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End-of-the-Road in Peru, Yurimaguas

It was quite a ride over the final ridge of the Andes, steep and increasingly verdant, filled with village roadside life. We knew the heat would come, and it has. We are resisting air conditioning, even though is is sometimes available, hoping to quickly adapt to the heat. We have kept the days short, trying to be done by early afternoon, when heat stress begins to take a heavy toll. The andes end abruptly at Tarapoto, Peru but are immediately replaced by the Andes foothills, steep and lovely.

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Which Came First the Chicken or the Egg?

In the village of Pongo, I ordered a common soup in Peru, Caldo de Gallina. Usually it is chicken noodle soup with a leg or thigh, sometimes an egg stirred in while cooking. Not this time. I got the real deal. I turned over the chicken back and found it filled with chicken innards. Now, I grew up on a farm, and we ate the heart, gizzard and liver of the chickens we slaughtered, but let the rest of it go to the hogs. After closer inspection I discovered a complete egg, shell and all, just ready to be laid. That was cool. I ate it,

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The Rest of the Story

After Cajamarca we succeeded in topping out the Andes’ first high ridge on a rocky, dusty road at 3765 meters. Claire began coughing at the most excellent bicycle resort, (an earlier post) and I at first thought it was the thick fine dust we’d been subjected to over the pass. It wasn’t dust. By the time we reached Celendin, Claire was as ill as I’ve ever seen her, coughing violently and choking. I was very concerned, and mentally planning how to store or abandon Zippy and get us back to Lima. She did improve over the next two days, but certainly not enough to consider cycling. We took a bus to Chachapoyas, and stayed for a week, where I got my current lung infection. Bummer.

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Who Needs A Bullfight?

We arrived in Celendin during a big fiesta week, on the day of the bullfight. We made our way to the still-under-construction bullfight ring. After careful consideration of the rickety contraption, that would soon hold, we hoped, a few thousand people, we selected seats (rough cut boards) on the second level fronting the ring. Our strategy, should the thing start rocking, would be to jump into the ring, and take our chances with the bulls. This was not to be. Lack of language had led us to think the event was free to all, and seating was open. No. Just at the end of this video, we were unceremoniously escorted from our seats. Apparently a family group buys a whole section, and we were trespassing. Oh well, we were able to see a couple of bloody bull deaths later on local cable TV in our (no water, but cable TV) room. That was close enough.

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Cruz Conga, Peru; Resort Extraordinaire

It’s all part of being travelers. Sometimes things don’t turn out as expected. The day began beautifully; a 300 meter climb, on pista (pavement) for a change. Sunny, lazy dogs, Zippy behaving, and a change of landscape over the top. Our legs felt good. It was to be a short day, 40k to a village just big enough to have accommodation and food. We found the food, but wasted an hour looking for the hospedaje, and failed to find it, after being pointed to all corners of the village.

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So Much Like a County Fair in any U.S. State

We went to an agricultural fair in the Peruvian Andes and were surprised at just how much it was like our own county fairs. There was even a cuy (guinea pig) queen, lots of farm animals, food and even a limited but very popular equestrian jumping competition.

We had cuy for lunch. A little greasy and not much meat, but not bad tasting. Claire shot some video. Many photos coming.

PS. We love Cajamarca; brightly painted, clean, good food and music, friendly people who don’t seem to look at us a tourists. Maybe it’s because Gringoes don’t come here. More Andes tomorrow.

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Bus Evangelist in Andes Peru

We bussed to catch up, after a long story dead end in the We could understand a few concepts of his sermon: Music of Satan, Movies and marijuana. He appeared be genuine, coming close to tears at one point. The bus seemed to be less than half with him, some clapping and singing hymns he led. He wasn’t Catholic, and that may have accounted for the lack of enthusiasm on the part of many. Evangelicals are making big strides in South America, and Catholics aren’t too happy.

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Bush Camp on the Rio Santa in Peruvian Andes

As usual when bush camping, I eased in and out of sleep throughout the night, keeping time with the changing positions of stars and Milky Way. It cooled through the night and we snuggled off and on, spoke quietly about the stars, and the shadows on the canyon walls cast by the odd passing vehicle, watching for a cessation of movement or change in motor sound.

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Casa de Ciclistas in Trujillo, Peru

We rode and walked a complete spiral around the neighborhood before we finally found the legendary Casa de Ciclistas in Trujillo. “Mi casa es su casa.” Lucho’s wife, Aricela warmly snuggled up to me on the couch though I was grimy and tired from travel. Bob connected with Alan, another tandem captain to talk tech and other cyclists came and went through the chaos.

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Canyon del Pato, Peru; Hell on two Tandem Wheels

Canyon del Pato is Hell on a tandem, pretty much two days of Hell. It was the best way north in the Andes from Huaraz without backtracking to a road lined with illegal coca plantations and bandits; not our favorite type of cultural interaction.

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Lima, the Pan American Highway and the amazing ancient ruin of Caral

The traffic in mid-town Lima seems a bit better than most large Asian cities, but still a challenge. Claire claims I get a little macho in city traffic, and she might be right. It does take a bit of aggression to get anywhere, always with a bail-out in mind; she doesn’t always see that from the back seat. She’s the brave one, and I listen when she says “enough.”

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Lima Peru City of Fog and Clouds

So, will this be the tour that starts in a monsoon and finishes in a hurricane? Claire here, so far all I’ve forgotten is my hairbrush, but I`ve decided that for now I don’t need it. Bob put the bike back together in record time. We arrived around 9:00 and he was done by noon. We slept the rest of the day, had cold showers and went out for dinner (burger and fries). Today we took a shakedown ride and everything works. Zippy appears to have an especially romantic appeal here.

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Final Step in Preparing a Tandem Bicycle for the Andes and Amazon 7

We were fortunate to have uphill headwinds on the downhill side of the Tien Shen mountains in Western China, or it could have been a problem. Our loaded tandem, including us, weighs around 400 pounds. That weight puts such pressure on standard brakes and brake pads that we risk an exploded tire from overheated rims, not a good thing at speed down a steep mountain.

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Preparing a Tandem Bicycle for the Andes and the Amazon 6

When the nearest bicycle shop is hundreds, even thousands of miles away, we have to be prepared to fix most problems. I carry up to a kilo of tools and spare parts to fix most of the mechanical failures we might encounter after travel on bad roads, and dirt tracks.

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You Ride A Big Southwest Mountain in Summer

Somewhere below 5,000 feet, you notice the saguaros are gone, replaced by oak grasslands and twenty foot agaves in bloom. Another thousand feet and you enter Bear Canyon and feel the cool from Arizona sycamores and alligator junipers. Further up the canyon, you notice the piney vanilla scent of huge ponderosas, their green crowns spiking the now intense blue sky. Breathe deep. Stand on the pedals. Stretch your back and shoulders. Push a little. Feel the burn, the joy of your body, working as it should. A canyon wren’s liquid descending song cheers you on.

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Preparing a Tandem Bicycle for the Andes and the Amazon 5

In the third world/developing world, your flat might just occur in an exposed location, putting you in potential danger, or at the least surrounded by a vociferous curious crowd throwing questions at you in a language you don’t understand. A little pantomime and wide a wide smile usually takes care of this, but it plays hell with the concentration. You don’t want flats.

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Preparing a Tandem Bicycle for the Andes and the Amazon 4

When we travel on our tandem in difficult places, like Tibet, and SE Asia, keeping the bike clean is the last thing I’m thinking about at the end of a hard day: food, a place to get horizontal and sleep are first priority, maybe changing money, buying food for the next day, trying to understand your host, the market vendors; all this before sunset since it’s often cold then, or sometimes not the best time for a gringo to be wandering the streets. So this is often when the derailleuer looks like after 3 or 4 thousand miles.

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Preparing a Tandem for the Andes and the Amazon 3

You find the darndest things when you remove a bottom bracket from the frame sometimes. This is what we brought home from Tibet and Southeast Asia. No matter how much grease you use, eventually dirt and grit find their way into your frame. We’ve brought home teaspoons of soil from Australia, Asia twice, and I’m sure we’ll bring some back from South America. If we could just stick to nice paved roads we wouldn’t have this problem, and not so much fun either.

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Preparing a Tandem Bicycle for the Andes and Amazon – 2

As you can see this hub had some major abuse on our last adventure, in particular pushing for twenty kilometers while lost for two days on an old branch of the Hoh Chi Minh trail in Laos. At least it didn’t run over a bombie and blow us all up; these part would have been really scattered then. After cleaning, I forgot to take a photo, the parts were clean and smooth again, ready for another go at some more mountains, this time the Andes, and probably a bunch of bad dirt roads. That’s why I paid big bucks ($150 or so a long time ago) for a great hub (not a sponsor, we have no sponsors) The hub body has over 18,000 miles on it, and we are on the second set of paws and springs. Not a bad deal.

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Preparing a Tandem Bicycle for the Andes and Amazon 1

I am beginning to dismantle Zippy, world touring tandem, in preparation for our next self supported tour, this time South America. Before each tour, I completely dismantle Zippy for three reasons: to find our which parts need replacing so I can order them and fix the worn parts, catch any impending failures of frame, rims or drive-train, and to re-familiarize myself with every part. Since many of the places we tour are hundreds of miles from a proper bike shop, I have to be able to fix pretty much anything. Anyone who owns a tandem will tell you tandems need more attention than single bikes; I might have to rebuild the hub somewhere in the high Andes, or the middle of the Amazon basin, while being munched on by ants and mosquitoes and critters we’ve never seen before.

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Sometimes the Best Way to Travel by Bicycle, is by Taking a Train

Some times a variety of events make trains the best choice for long distance cyclists. We no longer have anything to prove by riding every inch of the way across the U.S., or around and across other countries, continents. Been there, done that. We are now travelers, who happen to believe bicycle is the best way to see the world. However, there are other transportation methods that have a place in our hearts. Some of best experiences have been traveling by train.

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Putting the Multi-modal in World Travel by Bicycle

Long bicycle tours can sometimes lead to what looks like a dead end, like ending up in a Mekong River border crossing between Vietnam and Cambodia. The road forward was a path. In this case it was more practical, and more fun, to travel in a multi-modal manner. The four-hour river boat ride into Cambodia cost us $10 and was filled with images of life on the Mekong we would have missed from the shore.

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Westmoreland, Abrams and Petraeus, Views of War

Abrams represented change in military thinking that has carried over, belatedly again, into the contemporary Iraq and Afghanistan wars. But not in the beginning. Shock and Awe was the order of the day at first in Iraq; search and destroy with armor and airpower won the day to Baghdad. Of course the enemy waited and watched, and invented the roadside bomb. General David Petraeus was brought in when old techniques were found lacking. He had read the Book of Abrams, and paid attention.

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Battle, Lam Son 719: Tchepone, Laos and the Hoh Chi Minh Trail

From supposedly reliable intelligence, Abrams was able to follow the progress of troops and supplies south, and judge where and when the North planned to attack over the border into Vietnam. To paraphrase from A Better War, Lewis Sorley: Troops advanced south in waves 500 to 600, moving at 12.2 kilometers per day, mostly by foot, the trucks saved for supplies and ammunition. We were able to move perhaps 60 Kilometers on the unimproved section, partly because our load was not on our feet, but on our bicycle, and partly because we had no backup supplies; we had to get out of that jungle in short order.

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Tchepone, Laos and the Southeast Asian War

Because of our most recent travels in Asia on our tandem bicycle, I have developed a new interest in the Vietnam War, really the Indochina War of my youth. My draft board called me in 1964. I presented myself, got on a bus and taken for a physical and mental evaluation. I was just out of hospital for a bleeding ulcer. They didn’t know how to cure ulcers in those days, and they knew military food would kill me: 4F. I have always had some survivor’s guilt, partly because I have seen the toll that particular war took on many of the surviving draftees. The vets I have shared this feeling with have said I didn’t miss anything, and to let it go. I think I have. Maybe traveling there, seeing the land and the people involved has had something to do with my coming to terms with those feelings. My appreciation for anyone who fought there is deep. It was one helluva place to have to fight a war.

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Flashbacks to a favorite place and time: joy and thanksgiving

It was the beginning of another physically challenging day, frosty, clear, with wood smoke on the air. But that wasn’t it. The roadhouse we stayed in the night before had a mix of police and interesting locals drinking lots of beer and eating many fascinating dishes. The architecture was beautiful. The temple just before the village seemed to hang, glowing white in the thin air, from a cliff. We almost got lost, nothing new. No. It was something else.

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Footprint in the Sand; Just a Thought

A footprint in sand. Soon to be erased by the breath of time. A mark. An instant. One step of many. Why make it special? Do you note your marks? Do you listen to the sound your foot makes in sand? Do you feel the pressure, the texture, the cool or the heat? Just a thought.

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Tibetan Vampire: fun is universal across time and culture

Talk about a mystery. Where does a Tibetan kid in remote Litang get a set of wax vampire fangs? I mean, I had these things 60 years ago in West Virginia. Watching him play vampire to a couple of rarely seen Westerners brought back my childhood. I can remember what the teeth tasted like after I chewed them into a ball of wax. Fun is universal, it crosses culture and time.

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Happy Valentines Day: A Love Story

“You don’t fu….. care about me!” It came from a young woman sitting in a car beside Turtle. “You don’t treat me like you did before. You don’t treat me the same fu….. way you did before we got married.” A young man, stood tall beside her window, hands at his sides, outer calm mirrored in his desert camouflage uniform, defending himself in an even tone. “It’s not me. It’s you,” he said.

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Laotian Time Bombs: A war’s explosive environmental legacy (Sierra Magazine, Feb. 2011)

Our risk was nothing compared to the average Laotian farmer, wandering children, firewood gathering women, who know their next footstep can mean death, or for some worse, maiming, in a poor country where everyone must contribute.

Some facts: 270 million of these bombies were dropped on a country the size of Utah. Of the more than 50,000 people killed or maimed by the bombings, 20,000 have occurred after the end of the war. An average of one person a day is killed or maimed in Laos now, nearly 40 years later.

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The Many Faces of Buddha

Southeast Asia is made up of several compact, densely populated countries. Along with a change in currency and the sound of a different language, visitors to the region know they’ve crossed a national border simply by looking to the Buddha. Buddhist imagery and the philosophies it reflects are remarkably different from region to region worldwide, but the differences are especially pronounced in Southeast Asia.

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Traveling Today’s Tea Horse Road

We`re hauling only one pound of tea on our aluminum horse built for two, a tandem bicycle we’re riding along the same course as an ancient trade route between the Tibetan Empire and the Chinese dynasties. Our cargo includes another 69 pounds of gear weighing us down as we angle up switchbacks and pound through potholes and washouts. Why would we subject ourselves to this arduous endurance test? To glimpse one of the most treacherous and lengthy trade routes on Earth. At least that is how the route was described by Jeff Fuchs, in his 2008 book, The Ancient Tea Horse Road: Travels with the Last of the Himalayan Muleteers. Fuchs has revived interest in the route after scouting its remaining traces to find clues to the people who last walked it.

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Looking Back On Time an article by Claire Rogers in Desert Leaf

Because the Earth’s magnetic poles wander erratically over time, the magnetic orientation of artifacts from a site can be tied to specific dates in the geologic time scale.
Archaeologists love a good mystery, and they have found one at the base of the Tucson Mountains. One quarter mile from the West Branch of the Santa Cruz River, near what is now the intersection of Mission and Irvington roads, a complex of ancient settlements bears the markers of abrupt change. From A.D. 950 to 1140, agriculture in the area appeared to be on the rise and the population in flux. Initial archaeological research at the West Branch site began in 1984; nine years later, additional inquiry added volumes to what was previously known about the boom and bust of this period in Tucson’s pre-history.

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The Killing Fields: The Shooting of Gabrielle Giffords and Others

After 35 years, the first Khmer Rouge mass murderer has been convicted in Cambodia. We’ve all heard of the killing fields of Cambodia, when the Khmer Rouge murdered between one and two million other Cambodians. It was one of the worst periods of mass murder in history. It was the Chinese Cultural Revolution gone crazy. The Khmer Rouge, in attempting to bring about an agrarian utopian society, sought out and murdered anyone with an education, and anyone associated with them.

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The Finger Rock Trail, Tucson, Arizona, January 2011

Leftover snow with underlying ice made the going a tad slow in places. Seven miles and 3,000 vertical feet to Linda Vista, a good hike for my feet. Nice to be breathing in the fresh scents of the desert plants and stimulating conversation with friends. A new trail for me. Maybe next time,after the ice melts, The Finger, a thousand or so feet higher.

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Making a New Year’s Resolution? Don’t!

It’s good to have traditions for the New Year, but not all traditions are positive. One I have done without for many years is to make a New Year’s resolution. Here’s why:

You will break it. Sad to say, nearly all New Year’s resolutions are broken, probably within a few weeks to a couple of months of their making. Oh, the motivation is pure. Say, you really, really resolve to lose that ten pounds you gained over the holidays, not to mention the three to five pounds that crept up on you over the year, like they have each year since you passed twenty-five. Don’t be too hard on yourself, it happens to the purest among us. It’s just the natural aging process, our wealthy society, our holiday binging philosophy, and just plain human nature.

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Motorhome Boondock view of Kluane Lake, Yukon Territory, Canada

Kluane Lake, Yukon in late August, 2010 from the window of our motorhome. In Yukon Territory, you can pretty much “camp” wherever you can find a flat spot to park. Our Winnebego View is small enough to park just about any place you could park a van, yet has the essentials of any home. We watched the view morph to mellow evening light. We followed animal tracks in the rock and sand beach, and returned “home” to stir fry vegetables and pasta and a glass of wine. Darkness came quickly and we watched night displace day with billions of stars through our skylight. Simple pleasures are best.

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Phillip Ashley: R324, Nazareth, Ky 40048 Important Person

In late 1995 we were riding our tandem, Zippy across remote Rio Grande, West Texas. We were 30 miles from any town, enjoying the warmth and sun, racing winter in New Mexico. A seventies era car passed us slowly, dented and rusted, and pulled over on the opposite shoulder a hundred yards ahead. Being alone, on our bicycle for about 11,000 since leaving our home in Washington State six months before, we naturally looked carefully at unusual cars and unusual behavior. As we neared the car, a man in his late 60’s emerged from the car and waved us down. He looked harmless, even cute, so we stopped and smiled as he approached with his antique camera, and took this picture.

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The (Chinese) Communist Party Are Eating Their Young

Our world is becoming complicated. Cold War ways of thinking about Asia in particular are useless, damaging to our foreign policy. I wish more Americans would use their wealth to see, really see, our World, and understand that it is not as we were taught in school. Go and experience for yourselves, the lives of people, who except for accident of birth, are not that much different than you. Remember that; not that much different than you.

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Litang, Tibetan Sichuan, No tourists here!

Litang is far from a tourist town. The roads are so bad that the Han Chinese find it quite an adventure to travel there via modern SUV to view the, strange to them, Tibetans. They found it quite strange to find two Westerners, a couple, riding a tandem bicycle, on the roads and elevations they found so daunting. They are daunting, and took a physical toll on us, leading to a well deserved rest in a town we came to love, and found difficult to leave, despite the high elevation and wonky weather.

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Cambodian Disaster: Sad Event For A Fine People

So sad to hear of the crowd disaster and all the deaths in Cambodia. In our three weeks or so in the country we found the people to be hard working, cheerful and generally happy despite sometimes difficult living conditions. Like most Southeast Asians, they love their festivals, and the Water Festival is most beloved. This is an unusual occurrence and should not deter anyone from visiting this wonderful country. We’d go back in a minute. เทศกาลน้ำ

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Ear Wax Removal Guaranteed, and Safer than the Vietnamese Barber’s Method

I do have an ear wax removal method you can do yourself. Before you shower, fill one ear with vegetable oil and let it soak by lying on your side for five minutes, or more if you can stand it. Absorb the oil with a paper towel when you stand. Shower with a moderately strong stream of warm water into that ear. After a couple of minutes, turn your ear to the bottom of the shower, jump on your right leg and bang your head on the opposite side, gently.

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Living on the Mekong in Cambodia: Where do you live?

The family on this, approximately 25 long by four feet wide boat, are fishing the Mekong river in Cambodia. They fish from early morning to dark daily. They will find a, hopefully safe, place to tie up for the night. The boat is their home, their only home. The eat, sleep, cook, make love, give birth and die there. The only time they touch land is to sell their fish. In some places buyers come to the river. There are many such boats on the Mekong, in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. Sometimes a government tries to take them from the river, but they return.

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From Thomas Jefferson’s Inaugural Address: Listen to Our Founding Father

This is a very old speech. A speech by one of our founding fathers. We hear a lot about these men in recent years. Few of the people evoke their greatness have ever read their writings, know their opinions. The short excerpt from Thomas Jefferson’s inaugural address is just a sample. Follow the link to read the entire address, and please, before you invoke these brave, intelligent men, read their words, don’t use them to divide us.

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Hot Tip: Two Women of Color Having Business Success: Turnaround Near

Oh, did I mention, they were both women of color? These women would not have been running their own businesses a few decades ago, more recently in the South, maybe even now. But here in the West, land of opportunity, they were making a go of it, and enjoying the process. And they felt comfortable, seemed to enjoy, sharing with a White man. I know this doesn’t seem remarkable to many of you, but I can remember seeing water fountains signed, “Whites Only”, and not so many years ago, “Employees Only” signs in Virginia, that were open to us, because we were White.

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Dr. Andrew Weil’s Integrated Wellness Program at Miraval

Claire snared a press invitations to the official opening of Dr. Andrew Weil’s Integrative Wellness Program at the posh spa Miraval in Tucson. We met Dr. Weil and had a tour of the facility with resident physician, Dr. Jim Nicolai and his nurse Sheryl Brooks. The idea is to combine the integrative medicine concepts of Dr. Weil with the exercise, stress and relaxation activities of Miraval to plot an optimal lifestyle and wellness path for clients.

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Petrified Forest National Park: hidden gem just off I-40 N. Arizona

Recently Claire and I were lucky enough to catch a hike guided by the park paleontologist and an interpretive ranger. The short, two mile or so, hike took us away from the road and interpretive signs and into the washes and flats where dinosaurs died 225 million years ago in the late Triassic Period. We found pieces of bone and Claire even found an intact tooth. The stark landscape adds to the mystery and amazement of the realization that you are holding a thing, that was once part of a living Stagonolepis so long ago. Nothing like science to put one’s lifespan into perspective.

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Crater Lake, Oregon; another BIG ONE only a matter of TIME

Mount Mazama, once over 12,000 feet in elevation, went through a half-million years of alternating eruptions and quietude. Between seven and eight thousand years ago, Mount Mazama erupted violently numerous times, covering eight states and three Canadian provinces with six inches of ash. These eruptions produced 150 times the ash as the Mount St. Helens eruption in 1980.

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A Re-post of: A Thorn Tree Grows in Shangri-la

Finally we waved and pushed off, our 26 inch prayer wheels spinning out thousands of goodwill messages up his mountain; but I think we might have missed the point. The farmer and his wife live Shangri-la, not just in it, but they are Shangri-la. They are poor, but well fed, and the circle of their days allows for a break when tired, a visit with passing strangers, the rhythm of weeding, or wall building when they feel like it, and the song of bird and stream as accompaniment to it all.

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Re-post of: Entering the Back Gate to the Garden of Shangri-la

This is a re-post from about a year ago when we were still on the Tibetan Plateau. We re-post it here for those who might have missed the original. If you wish to read the complete posts of In Search of Shangri-la, click on the link under Adventures at left.

We’ve called this often grueling trip from Chengdu, the Back Road to Shangri-la. A few days ago, we entered the high gate to the garden of Shangri-la. We topped out above 15,000 feet each day, and often stayed there for hours.

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Losang’s Litang: Good Tibetan Site

We recently had a comment from Losang about my post on Litang. He he has lived in Tibet for eight years and knows all corners. If our posts gave you a taste of Tibet, Losang ‘s site offers a feast. I’ve linked to just his Litang post, but you can follow other links to the rest of his site.

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Lucky’s High Pass in Tibet, a 16,000 foot high bear, one year ago today

There will be more mountains to come, and some will probably seem harder than this one. Zippy is making strange noises from the drive-train, and we fear we have put him under too much strain this time.

We are sometimes tired, but feeling stronger every day. We’ve reached that magical three-week point in a long challenging bicycle tour, when we are in the zone, when we feel pretty much ready for anything.

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Litang:Tibetan Cultural Center of Tibet

people think of the Tibetan people and the Tibetan Plateau as being only within the lines drawn by the Chinese government, the Tibetan Autonomous Region. Both the Plateau and the Tibetan people are spread over several other provinces. The government encourages Hans to move into Tibetan lands with various incentives, and by building new cities deep in formerly exclusive Tibetan lands. But the fingers of Himalayas we crossed to climb the Plateau, and the difficulty in building and maintaining roads, have kept this part of Tibetan land Tibetan.

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Dungeness Valley Twilight in Washington State: Hint of Winter to Come

The Olympic Peninsula of Washington State is not a famous for sunset skies as some places, but when the sun has a little space between clouds to work with, spectacular results. Some of the best skies are late in the day in winter. It seems like winter is coming early this year (La Nina), and this evening sky gives strong hints of things to come.

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Snowy cold Tibetan pass for two weary travelers

When we awoke it was still raining, spattering the mud puddles of the courtyard with discouraging regularity. We couldn’t imagine another day of near hypothermia, and more hills and bad roads. But, we didn’t want to stay another day with the road workers, nice as they were, so we packed up our filthy gear and steeled ourselves for the day. By the time we were ready to go, the rain had stopped, and there was even a hint of blue over the first hill. The road workers were spot on with their description of the road ahead, a first on this trip.

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Shelter in Tibet for two weary cold travelers

We used Bob’s jacket printed with a map of the world on it to try to convey where we were from, where we’d been and where we planned to go. I have no idea if they’d ever seen a map before. It doesn’t really matter to them, their world is an isolated village along a road between two passes and 50 kilometers from the nearest town. It sounds romantic: going to sleep to the sounds of chanting and waking to the sounds of milking. But these women’s lives are a gritty existence that our culture hasn’t known for generations. Hauling wood, water, and food up the ladder to the living space, making butter and curds, grinding grain, hand washing clothes, keeping the fire going, cooking… Mundane, routine, weather-dependent, smoke-filled and layered with years of grime.

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Sequim Marimba Band playing for the Free Clinic Walk

This is a short clip of the Sequim Marimba Band playing Saturday September 18th for a benefit health fair and walk for a free clinic. This band has been around for years and keeps evolving and getting better and better. Wherever they play the sun shines, despite the fog and rain of a Northwest autumn.

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Elation, Pain, Surprise: First of Three from one year ago

We were in the middle to nowhere for three days, climbed more passes than were supposed to be there, were never below about 14,000 feet and bad weather surprised us. The road to Shangri-la is always filled with life and surprise.

Follow the whole story over the next three posts.

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High Tibetan mountains: Thinking of food

we’re eating pork now, or any kind of protein for that matter, and we eat whatever vegetables they bring us. At the grocery stores, we study and poke the packages and hope they’ll sustain us through a night of camping. Yogurt and cookies (a whole roll) is a before bed tradition of carbohydrate loading. …push a pedal stroke for us, we’ll need it; tomorrow; (tonight for you) we climb 7,000 feet to well over 15,000 feet and hope to get down in elevation to find a camping spot low enough to allow for sleep, before dark.

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What the Up is like for us in Tibet

Though the mountain was crowded with lots of construction workers, it was somehow comforting to have some of the road crew trying to beckon us over to their fire to warm up. They didn’t seem to understand that our lightweight clothing was plenty for as hard as we were working but that we would cool down if we stopped. Much as we would have liked to have tea and a visit, we had to keep moving. We got many cheers, thumbs up, much misinformation and even a push from two road monitors.

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A New High: Into Tibet in Search of Shangri-la

Yesterday we rode Zippy to the highest elevation ever for us. We started at 8,500 feet in Kangding and topped Zheduo Pass at 13,900 feet in 35 kilometers, or 21.7 miles, all under construction/repair. For our Olympic Peninsula friends, that’s like taking the Hurricane Ridge Road, raising the sea level start to 3,000 feet above the Ridge, loading 80 pounds on your tandem before beginning. Oh, I forgot, put 1,000 people and hundreds of trucks and equipment on the now gravel/dirt/broken concrete road.

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Into Tibetan Lands: a repost from one year ago today.

We are getting into Tibetan prefectures and seeing the dress and features of the minority population. After a 13,000 plus pass tomorrow, they will no longer be the minority. We are already seeing prayer flags flying, and old women turning prayer wheels as they walk, men dressed in huge leather cloaks with cowboy style hats and daggers. Everyone is friendly, and the air is finally clear!

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Erlangshan Tunnel:Riding with Chinese friends, In Search of Shangri-la

We caught them 1,000 vertical meters later at the entrance to the summit tunnel to great exclamations of pleasure and another round of picture taking, with Zippy at the center. Lucky was busy flirting with one of the girls and got left out of the picture, again!

There were police and army personnel all over the place, protecting the tunnel no doubt, and we had to show our passports to be allowed through. We had heard horror stories about the tunnel, but found it reasonably well lit and smooth. As usual, when you worry, it is always unnecessary.

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Yak Parade, from one year ago In Search of Shangri-la

We have various obstacles as cyclists in America, but in Tibet the challenges are different that your usual yahoo yelling obscenities or throwing bottles. You move forward slowly, and the sea of black horned quadrupeds part like the Red Sea for Moses. After their passing, it is best to keep a close lookout for Yak bombs.

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Chengdu China one year ago today. Series on beginning In Search of Shangri-la

One year ago today we rode our tandem in Chengdu, China traffic in preparation for our journey across Tibetan China and through Southeast Asia. We are beginning a series of re-posts remembering this adventure. Follow us as we remember, or better yet, go to the link at left, In Search of Shangri-la and read the whole four months.

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Tiger Mountain, Washington, High Flyers

Hiked a 5 mileRT/2000 ft. trail with Bob’s sister Anne Bowlds today. At the summit we watched locals float over forests and meadows and slowly guide their fascinating craft to a gentle landing far below. Looks like fun. Nice Claire photos! Tiger Mountain Washington state.

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Kettle Valley Rail and Wine Trail

The Kettle Valley Rail Trail isn’t all remote mountain views and trestles; we rode beside grapevines and past winery doors on a section from Penticton to cute little Naramata. I liked Naramata, lovely by the lake, but also because it reminded me of Australian names, many of which end with …ata, sometimes …atta. Homesick for Australian wine country again.

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Kettle Valley Rail Trail

We got on the, still unfinished, Kettle Valley Railway (rail trail) bypassing Kelona and on to Penticton. The Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park is the most spectacular section of the trail, with 18 trestles and two tunnels in an 8.5 kilometer section.

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Goodby Alaska, Hello Again Canada

We missed a sow grizzly by seconds. According to volunteers, something spooked her up on to the road just before our arrival. We saw her still wet paw prints in the road after we rounded a corner. I sure am glad we weren’t there when she burst out of the brush, scared for her cubs and soon to become mad at innocent us! All we saw at the site was a few bushes rustling. All this time in the far north, and not one grizzly sighting. Maybe the wet paw prints were more exciting than seeing her from the protection of a raised viewing platform.

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Our Best Anniversary Present Ever

Claire and I looked at each other. We both had tears in our eyes. It was our twentieth anniversary, and we were witnessing the beginning of the end of a young marriage. It didn’t take words between us to know what we would do.

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On the road to, and in, Denali National Park

By noon our mountain bikes were loaded and we were off. The traffic was not bad, the hills fairly long. We saw the mountain (hooray!), two caribou, a family of ptarmigan, a snowshoe hare, and a huge set of grizzly tracks. We arrived at Sanctuary River with plenty of time to organize our camp and stow our food safe from bears, and from attracting bears. No bears.

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What is a Boondock? Why do we do it?

This is a direct photo through the windshield of our motorhome, Turtle, of The Mittens in Monument Valley, Arizona. I doubt there is a very expensive RV resort, or Five Star hotel, that could offer an equal view. This was a no service parking spot on the Navajo reservation. Boondock spots (sometimes called dry camping) are free, but we paid $5 for this one. I’d say $5 is close enough to free to qualify.

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Character(s) at The End of the Road, Homer, Alaska

After a good hard bike ride up East End Road out of Homer, we decided to celebrate the rare sunshine with ice cream for a late lunch. We bought a carton at Fred Meyer’s and took it outside to their …

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Sometimes You Just Have To Do Something; Alaskan Encounter

Turnout boondock on the Kenai near Seward, and we were settled in for the night, nice forest on one side, traffic a good distance away on the other. Alone.

A truck with a camper pulling a boat, typical Alaskan rig, swung in ahead of us and stopped abruptly. The passenger door flung open, a woman jumped out and stumbled into the woods. After a few minutes a man got out the driver’s side and stood looking at the woods, hands in pockets, looked at his feet, called out loudly to the woods. He was still for tedious time, suddenly decided, and hurried into the woods.

Some loud voices, quiet, more commotion further away, then quiet again. We moved from mild interest to slight concern and finally worry. A half-hour passed. Should I do something? What? Was this just a couple’s spat or something more serious?

He’d turned off the truck, but the headlights were still on, the driver’s door open. I hoped he’d seen us, but what if he was blinded with anger, unaware that the drama was not being played to an empty house.

I decided to make sure he knew someone was listening, aware. I walked to the truck, and yelled in the direction I’d last heard them, “Hey! You guys okay? Silence.

Then I had an idea and yelled: “Your headlights are on.” After a few seconds the man walked from the woods. “Yeah, we’re okay. Thanks.” He looked a sad tired man. “I figured you were having a bad day, and didn’t need one more thing to go tits up.” He smiled at me. “Yeah, thanks man.” His smile was soft, sincere. He went back to the woods and she came out with him soon after. He got a blanket from the back and put it gently around her shoulders, and they drove away.

Sometimes you just have to do something. Small things matter.

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Alaska Fish Craziness in Kenai, Kenai River

Just a quick touch of the salmon crazed Alaskans (legal residents) fishing with nets at the mouth of the Kenai River. It’s how they fill their freezers for the year and have a lot of fun it seems. The gulls are happy too!

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Midnight Sun Blues

There is something about the light here this past week: soft and heavy and long nearly through the night; long and soft and ineffectual. I find it vaguely depressing, sometimes not so vaguely. An hour of blessed sunshine makes it worse, knowing it will go away and take the mountains and the spectral highlights, the sparkle, with it. The sun, slow to come, always going away, soon. I know I shouldn’t feel this way about the North. I feel guilty about, which doesn’t help any. All the beauty; moose, bears, lakes, mountains, and still snow patches and sometimes glaciers. But the light is just not there, just not right, yet.

There were days during the months we spent in Iceland

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Alaska Summer Camp, Deadman Lake.

Not long after entering Alaska from Yukon Territory, Claire found a small lake with free camping through the Escapees listings. It was a short drive down a narrow dirt road, just small enough to keep out the big RVs. We were fairly early in the day and got the best lakeside site. We saw quite a few birds, Claire heard a loon, and I saw a pair of tundra swans patrolling the shore.

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Fountain of Need; Anchorage Encounter

We moped through the gray afternoon, napping to the shush of the fountain and studying maps to prepare for some sunny day. Throughout the day, a lone figure moved around the park, sometimes contemplating the fountain from a lonely perch on a park bench. As others came and went, this boy stayed. I imagined that he’d planned to study in the library and was stuck waiting for a ride home once a parent got off work. He looked to be a teenager, but he wasn’t talking on a cell phone or listening to music, he was just sitting.

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St. Elias Mountains Yukon Territory Canada

We expected bears or moose, but only had birds and wildflowers for company. The daylight is almost continuous now, and the light, when there is a break in the rainclouds, just fades and warms slowly toward 11pm, and it is light all night. I enjoy waking up and looking at the light at 2am or so, just as morning color begins to wash the sky.

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Whitehorse: A Busy First Nations Day and Solstice

A fun example of the cultural mixing here was the jig contest. Now, I’ve always thought of the jig, danced to a fast fiddle, as an Anglo-Saxon tradition: Irish, Scottish, French, but here it’s a local tradition, with most of the dancers of First Nations descent, with plenty of mixed and white faces giving it a go. Oh, by the way, the really really excellent fiddler seemed to be from the orient. Go figure.

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Enjoying big and beautiful British Columbia, on the cheap and slow.

t becomes almost difficult to sleep as we near the Yukon, the days are so long, the nights so short. We close all the blinds in Turtle, and it still is late before we can sleep. Light usually wakes me at 3:30am, but I’m a good sleeper, and Claire’s warmth makes it easy to wait for full sun to warm us through the windshield sometime around 6:30. At that 3:30 awakening, I open the blinds and curtain between our living area and the cab to welcome the sun. A warm house makes it easier to get out of bed at a reasonable hour.

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Beautiful British Columbia on the Alaska Highway: a hint of true North

This was taken after 10pm through the window of Turtle at a boondock on the Alaska Highway, or as the Canadians have signed it, the Great Northern. I prefer Great Northern; more romantic than the Alaska Highway.

Long days of slantlong light, and the landscape rolling off to infinity, makes for a magical sense of otherness, of strange timelessness. We love the road, and this one is special.

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The Eagle Has Landed

We boondocked with this van in the Bellingham Wal*Mart. It was festooned with sculptures of eagles. An older couple (like 80’s) were not shy about being noticed! Car after car drove up, rolled down their windows, and took a photo with cameras or phones. One woman left her car running in the middle of the busy lane and made a slow walk-around video.

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Precipice Trail, Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island Maine

There must be a lot of people considering doing the Precipice Trail in Acadia National Park again this summer. From our New Bohemians.net stat numbers it is the most popular outdoor “hike” in America. We loved it. It’s easy as long as you don’t have a fear of heights. Go for it! While you are at it, check our our links (left) for adventures of a couple who found Precipice Trail very easy: across the Silk Road, Around Australia, In Search of Shangri-la etc., all by tandem bicycle, 40,000 miles worth.

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Mount St. Helens and Me; a bike ride, a ski trip, a 30 year relationship.

I skied to a nearby ridge with friends the first February following the eruption. We snow camped with fantastic views of the still actively growing central plug. It glowed in the dark, and the splintered trees surrounding us stood out in stark gray strangeness to the white snow. During the first night we all felt an earthquake, but nobody mentioned it until late the next morning; never speak the name of Evil. It was just too scary an idea that there might be a new big eruption while we were exposed. There were constant belches of steam and ash from the crater. We were reluctant to leave. I never went back. I wanted to remember her that way, and a ski trip was an excellent way to say goodbye.

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Backroads Bicycling in the Willamette Valley

This is the second covered bridge we have found in Oregon on back road bike rides. It is in Polk county in the foothills of the Coast Range. We have had difficulty riding in Oregon this May; the weather is atrocious, and completely unpredictable. No, make that too predictable, rain likely but just enough sun breaks to make you wish you’d gone for a ride; but it’s hard to start a ride in the rain. I guess you have just go anyway in Oregon, and hope for the best.

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Emerson Vineyards, Harvest Hosts Stay in the Willamette Valley

Emerson, near Monmouth, Oregon, not far from Salem in the Wilmette Valley. They are on the Harvest Home program, and we were offered a parking place with spectacular views of their 25 acres of grapes and beautiful mature oak forest. We were also treated to a tasting like I remember from so many years ago, attentive and informative with no pressure to buy.

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Harvest Host Program for RVers wonderful for us so far.

The Longsword Winery in the Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon, was the first winery that hosted us for a night under the Harvest Hosts program. For a $20 membership you receive access to a growing number of wineries and farms who will allow you to park your RV overnight without a fee.

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Yreka, Scott River and Klamath River Loop Ride

The Wal*Mart parking spot is in the top ten at least. We heard lots of bird calls and not much else. There was little traffic in the parking lot, and we were not disturbed either of the two nights we boonocked there. We shopped at two businesses in town. We felt welcomed.

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Android Upload Test

Android ap for uploading directly from the phone to WordPress, had a glitch and the media (photo) wouldn’t load. They put in a fix and it works as of today. For you semi-geeks out there, it means I can take a photo, or hopefully a video, add the text and upload directly to newbohemians.net without having to have the computer on the Internet. Anywhere there is a cell signal, we can post. So if you see a photo of a huge set of grizzly teeth about to chomp my head, you’ll know what happened in real time, almost.

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The Road to Paradise is Steep

we had a nasty note about overnight parking the next morning. That usually means the local RV parks have pushed through an ordinance aimed directly at RVs and Wal*Mart. We were careful not to spend any money in Chico. Too bad, otherwise it’s a nice town. Using the law to promote specific businesses, and target other businesses (Wal*Mart) is not good business in the long run.

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New RV Friends in the snow below Donner Pass

He didn’t specify which branch of service he was in, but we guessed it was the one that tends to be secretive. After several, appropriately vague, stories about his ventures there, we shared our experiences being lost in Laos on the spiders web of the Hoh Chi Minh Trail, and we could tell he knew all about the anti-personnel “bobmbies” we were worried about.

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Mono Lake California: Brine Shrimp and Birds Threaten Los Angeles

The biota of the lake appears tgo be somewhat like the Great Salt Lake, brine shrimp and fly larvae the only critters able to survive in the toxic (natural) soup of water. However the birds find it the perfect place to stop by on their way north to breeding grounds; they can put on lots of weight, gain strength in a short time.

The lake is receding but not beyond historic levels. Los Angeles intercepts water before it reaches the lake, and it seems a no brainer that this is speeding up the process. There is considerable controversy over theextraction, and has been for years. It’s pretty hard to win, pitting our love of green lawns and swimming pools, against a few thousand tons of brine shrimp, and some birds.

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The Turtle Chronicles; Motorhome Travel, New Horizons

Tomorrow we begin six months of travel in our motorhome, Turtle. We begin again another volume of the Turtle Chronicles; motorhome travel and the discoveries it brings. This is not the full on adventure our bicycle tour In Search of Shangri-la, but a mellow exploration from Tucson to Alaska and back, the crooked long slow way, with lots side trips by bicycle, hikes to discover new sights, and as always, making new friends. Join us, and look for my essay in Escapees Magazine. I’ll give you a heads up and a link.

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Just Another Spring Day In Tucson

Just another spring day in Tucson. We rode our usual mid day 24 mile bike ride to Saguaro National Park, around the one way loop road, and back. After two days of unusual cool rain, the day was in the mid 80’s and the usual bright sun.

After a wet El Nino winter, the annual brittlebush and ocotillo are blooming strong, with other cactus just beginning a two month bloom.

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Deadly Bangkok, Another Side of the Story

I wrote from Bangkok that it was a Shangri-la of major cities, and despite a few inconveniences now and then, I stand by that assessment. It is a great place to get a taste of Asia without getting too far out of your comfort zone, a place from which to launch more adventurous forays into the most important continent in the coming century.

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Asia is not all Buddhist: Buddha Park, Vientiane, Laos

This is not the Buddha. The complexity of religious imagery in Southeast Asia is staggering to the Western mind. As we meandered the region at twelve miles per hour on our tandem bicycle, we saw so many depictions of religious beings that we will be years sorting them all out, if we ever manage the task.

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Ghost Town and San Rafael Valley Bike Loop

A group of Tucson cycling friends rode a loop from Patagonia to the U.S. Mexico border and back to Patagonia recently. The loop is 50 miles, about 40 of it on dirt roads. It takes in mining ghost towns nestled in oak covered hills, and a broad expanse of high grassland ranches.

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Seven Falls Spring Hike: Cold Rushing Water In The Desert

This is one of my favorite times of the year in the desert, flowing water, many colored blossoms, green foliage, cactus looking fat and happy, beginning to bud, and the Arizona sycamores and cottonwoods Shadow and boots, seven fallsbursting with green.

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Iceland Eruption: Causing Air Delays in Europs

It appears the volcano in Iceland is not going to go back to sleep without causing mankind to take notice of the disruption possible. Thousands of flights have been canceled by the the ash cloud ejected from the eruption under a glacier. The ash is even more destructive to air traffic because some of it may be turned to glass by the ice before being ejected high into the air.We’ll just have to wait and see if this will last for weeks and cause major economic disruption in North Atlantic and European transportation, or fade away quietly. I wouldn’t bet on either.

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Rainy Day Soup

Preparation: put a cup of water in the crock pot and turn on high, chop vegetables, throw in crock pot with contents of tomato can and cover. Cook on high for three hours; then add mushrooms, can of red beans, squirt of fish sauce, add chicken broth, chili flakes, and turn to low. Cook on low until time to eat. Adjust liquid if necessary. Grate sheep cheese on top of each bowl of soup (not in photo, forgot) and grind some pepper on top of that. Serve with whole grain bread and wine.

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Variation on a Theme

Preparation: cook yam covered with some water in microwave 2/3 done, let sit to finish. Fry salmon in lots of extra virgin olive oil with garlic powder and tarragon, remove and cover to stay warm. Add broccoli to salmon juices and olive oil on medium high and brown, add 21 Salute, chicken broth and finish covered. Serve on 8″ plate and a glass of wine.

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Crossing 8 flooded bridges in the desert, twice!

The link above will take you to Mark Doumas’ Facebook page where he has posted a video of a few of us crossing one of eight bridges over Sabino Creek near Tucson. It’s usually a great short steep ride of about three miles, but with this winter’s snow, and recent spring rains, the bridges become a fun, and cold challenge.

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Litterbug: Beware Cyclists

The three policemen, in two cars, arrived shortly afterward and parked between myself and nine cycling friends. I sat down, figuring I would be there a while. Three seemed like an awful lot, maybe they called backup out of concern that I would draw my prosthetic funnel and attempt to use it as a weapon. Or maybe the possibility of arresting a woman for urinating in public was the most interesting thing going on around campus that morning.

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We flew with the WASPS, the Womens Air Service Pilots.

Claire and I were honored to be able to fly on a vintage B 24 and B 17, with members of the Womens Air Service Pilots, WASPs, from Phoenix to Tucson. They were a delight to be around and it is a memory we will cherish. The story ran in the Desert Leaf, a Tucson monthly.

Today about 200 surviving WASPs were presented with the Congressional Gold Medal. About time! We hope all our friends were there.

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Hai Van Pass, Vietnam

This view is probably familiar to many in my generation who served in Vietnam in the 1960’s and 1970’s. It was taken, looking north, from a headland jutting out into the South China Sea, forming a barrier to weather, and no doubt troop movements, between South Vietnam and North Vietnam. Hai Van Pass, Vietnam.

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Second of a Two Meal Set; This one takes .25 X Time of the Last

Ingredients: leftover vegetables and chicken saute (two days old, max) extra virgin olive oil, 1/3 cup coconut milk, 1/2 orange, 1 tbsp fish oil, 1 tbsp red curry paste, 1/4 cup dry whole grain basmati rice, cashews.

Pour the cook a glass of wine.

Preparation: cook rice 35 minutes in salted water, drain and cover to finish; stir fry rice in olive oil, curry paste and fish oil; add leftovers to mix with coconut milk and heat; squeeze 1/4 orange into wok and stir.

Serve on 8″ plates with 1/4 orange and chopsticks.

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First of a Two Meal Set

Preparation: fry chicken breasts coated with Trader Joe’s21 Salute and garlic powder in lots of olive oil, chop vegetables large pieces, cook penne al dente while you fry the vegetables in lots of olive oil with tarragon and marjoram; add cubed fried chicken. Drain pasta and cover 1/2 of an 8″ plate, add vegetable/chicken breast mix, top with sheep cheese, pepitas and ground black pepper.

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The Mysteries of Travel, Azerbeijan

A few years ago Claire and I traveled the Silk Road from Beijing to Istanbul on our tandem bicycle. In a small town in Azerbaijan, we saw this door sill with three horseshoes attached, pointing to the street. In the U.S. some people attach a horseshoe over their front door, point up, for good luck, and/or prosperity. We were, as usual ignorant in the local language, and unable to ask what this means. Not knowing is sometimes more interesting than knowing all. But I wouldn’t mind if someone from the Caucasus area would tell us.

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Dinner built around Claire’s many-grained bread

Preparation: Claire bakes her no kneed many grained bread; I can’t be more specific because she makes it differently each time, which is part of the adventure! Steam the asparagus while frying the salmon in olive oil, sprinkled with tarragon and fresh pressed garlic. Make dipping oil/vinegar mix adding Trader Joe’s 21 Salute and pepper. Arrange on an 8″ plate, sprinkle asparagus with sea salt and serve with wine.

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Leftover Chicken Breast, Mixed Vegetables, Pasta and Sauce

Dice vegetables in large pieces, cube cooked chicken breasts; fry vegetables in lots of olive oil, adding pressed garlic, spices and cubed chicken near the end.Cook pasta al dente, drain but reserve 1 cup, add 3 tbsp of pasta water to bowl, one egg, 1/4 cup grated cheese and stir until a sauce. Reduce over heat if necessary. (Claire’s sauce) Mix pasta back into sauce. Place vegetable chicken mixture and pasta on 8″ plate, cover with sauce, sprinkle nuts and add pepper or salt if you like. Have with wine and your sweetie.

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Yam Patties and Asparagus

Fry patties in lots of olive oil, in a medium hot iron skillet, uncovered. Sprinkle with Old Bay seasoning, or other spice that goes with something a little sweet. TAKE CARE, the natural sugar in the yam tends to make the patties go from brown to burnt very quickly!

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Motorhome Travel, and Hike to The Wave in Northern Arizona

The Wave permit area on Bureau of Land Management Coyote Buttes wilderness area in Northern Arizona. I would like to have had a person in the photo for scale, but the sides were way too steep, including the place where I was standing.

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Okay, Sometimes it’s a Food Site

Preparation: Cut squash in half, remove seeds, bake covered in oven, or in microwave. Clean spinach, chop onion, caramelize onion in olive oil, add spinach, dice or press garlic on spinach. Add leftover fried chicken breast or fish to pan and cover to warm through. Place squash halves on 8″ plates, drizzle with honey. Place spinach onion mixture on 8″ plate with meat. Sprinkle pepitas over spinach and onions.

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Thanksgiving Dinner Pilaf, Vegetables and Chicken Breast

Cook and drain rice, set aside. Chop nuts (suggestion: walnuts and almonds), chop and caramelize onions and mushrooms in extra virgin olive oil and several cloves of pressed garlic. Remove from pan, add to rice and cover in bowl. Brown chicken breasts in olive oil on hot, both sides: sprinkle with spices of your choice. Remove from pan and put on top of covered pilaf to finish (microwave off is a good place). Saute vegetables in olive oil, add a small amount of chicken or vegetable broth and rice wine to finish.

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Day After Valentine’s Day, Thanksgiving Leftovers (not either holiday, everyday)

Ingredients: leftover onion, collard greens, red pepper dinner, one egg, one chicken breast, Madras curry powder, garlic powder, Trader Joe’s 21 Season Salute,1/3 cup Bulgar.

Preparation:

Pour the cook a glass of wine, whatever, this is leftovers!

Cook Bulgar in salted boiling water about 30 minutes, drain, stir and set aside. Fry chicken breast in extra virgin olive oil seasoned with garlic powder and 21 Season Salute. Remove from wok and cube. Add Bulgar, leftover vegetables to wok with olive oil and heat on hot, add egg, break and stir to fry then mix with other ingredients, add Madras curry powder to taste. Add cubed chicken breast to wok to warm.

Serve on 8″ plate with chopsticks and wine. Sprinkle top with favorite, or available, nuts or seeds. Claire adds chutney and I am not offended.

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A Heart Healthy Thanksgiving Dinner – this one for Valentine’s Day

Preparation: Pour the cook a glass of wine.

Chop onion and stems of greens, saute in LOTS of extra virgin olive oil, add chopped leafy collards, red peppers, curry paste and chicken broth, summer until done to taste.

Microwave yam, turning often until done. Let sit in microwave covered. Remove collard mixture to bowl, cover and add to microwave to stay warm and finish.

Cook and main squeeze have a glass of wine together. This is, after all Valentine’s Day. You should have done two other healthy activities with your main squeeze this day: exercise and sex. Dinner is the fianalle.

Coat fish with seasoning and fry in LOTS of extra virgin olive oil. Put on plate with greens, yam and serve with another glass of wine.

Leave the dishes for tomorrow and go to bed early.

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Thanksgiving Dinner 4 for two.

Caramelize cubed onion, fry chicken breast, both in LOTS of olive oil, and put both aside. Cook pasta al dente while you saute the zucchini with 5-10 cloves pressed garlic, in LOTS of olive oil. When pasta is al dente, drain and cover. Add onions, cubed chicken and sun dried tomatoes to pan and finish with LOTS of olive oil.

Put pasta on 8″ plate, add pan contents, grate sheep’s cheese on top, add pepitas.

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Why I Lost Weight in Tibet

European study explains why I lost 20 pounds riding to nearly 16,000 feet in Tibet, was unable to regain after descending to sea level. I was worried about the loss of weight, probably a combination of poor quality and quantity of protein, and why it took so long for me to begin regaining it when better food was available in SE Asia.

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Thanksgiving Dinner 3: Leftover salmon medley

A thanksgiving celebration for two, of a 70degree sunny day of bike riding in the lovely Sonoran desert with good friends, and the apparent rapid healing of my buggered ribs and shoulder.

Ingredients: 1/3 cup dry Whole grain rice and wild rice mixture, leftover wild salmon, 2 medium zucchini, 1 onion, 1/2 red pepper, 1/3 cup mushrooms, LOTS of extra virgin olive oil, 6 cloves garlic, 1tsp tarragon, 1/3 cup coconut milk, white wine of your choice.

Pour the cook a glass of wine.

Cook the rice 35 min. in extra water and a little sea salt, drain, cover and put aside.

Stir fry onions, zucchini, red peppers and mushrooms in LOTS of olive oil. Add garlic, tarragon, leftover salmon and coconut milk near the end, mostly.

Serve with wine and love.

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Thanksgiving Dinner 2: Salmon, yam and broccoli.

Ingredients: 1/2 pound frozen wild salmon, one large yam, two cups broccoli, one tomato, Trader Joe’s Coastal Syrah.

Preparation:

Open wine to breathe. Cook should have a glass to test.

Fry salmon, skin down in a hot covered iron skillet with lots of extra virgin olive oil, top with garlic powder and tarragon, drizzle with olive oil.

Microwave large yam, turning several times until easily pierced with a fork, cover and put aside.

Remove salmon from skillet before opaque in center, cover and let stand.

Begin frying broccoli in salmon juices with garlic powder and Trader Joe’s 21 Salute mixture, brown then finish off with chicken broth and water to steam.

Remove skin from salmon and place on plate with yam, broccoli and sliced tomatoes.

Optionally, grind sea salt and/or black pepper on yam, tomatoes and broccoli to taste.

Be thankful you have the health and means to enjoy such a meal. The Thai eat a bite of rice before each mean as thanksgiving for their staff of life.

Desert: A bowl of red grapes, or whatever fruit you have available.

A thanksgiving dinner for a wonderful day that included sunshine, fluffy clouds against a deep blue sky, and a couple of hours on a bicycle among the saguaros of Saguaro National Park, East Unit.

Ingredients: 1/2 pound frozen wild salmon, one large yam, two cups broccoli, one tomato, Trader Joe’s Coastal Syrah.

Preparation:

Open wine to breathe. Cook should have a glass to test.

Fry salmon, skin down in a hot covered iron skillet with lots of extra virgin olive oil, top with garlic powder and tarragon, drizzle with olive oil.

Microwave large yam, turning several times until easily pierced with a fork, cover and put aside.

Remove salmon from skillet before opaque in center, cover and let stand.

Begin frying broccoli in salmon juices with garlic powder and Trader Joe’s 21 Salute mixture, brown then finish off with chicken broth and water to steam.

Remove skin from salmon and place on plate with yam, broccoli and sliced tomatoes.

Optionally, grind sea salt and/or black pepper on yam, tomatoes and broccoli to taste.

Be thankful you have the health and means to enjoy such a meal. The Thai eat a bite of rice before each mean as thanksgiving for their staff of life.

Desert: A bowl of red grapes, or whatever fruit you have available.

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Thanksgiving Dinner 1: Fuel for Adventurous Living

Recipe for two:

Ingredients: extra virgin olive oil, garlic, ginger, three or four colorful vegetables and 1/2 cup mixed dried mushrooms re-hydrated. For vegetables I chose broccoli, onions, carrots and red peppers; what’s on sale. You can’t have too much of any of these!

Whole grain rice, 1/3 cup dry

Skinless boneless chicken breast, one

White wine, your choice, one or two glasses per person.

1/4 cup nuts, optional, your choice

Two 8 inch desert plates. Chopsticks. When you taste this you will think these two ingredient are cruel, but trust me the plates will hold enough to satisfy, and the chopsticks will assure that you eatmindfully, slowly.

Preparation:

Cook rice per directions.

Pour the cook a glass of wine to keep his creativity sharp.

Fry chicken breast in LOTS of extra virgin olive oil, with spice of your choice (I used Trader Joe’s 21 Salute seasoning) don’t overcook, put aside.

Chop veggies, not too small and stir fry in LOTS of olive oil, as soon as the rice is done. Do not over cook; should be bright in color and a little crunchy. You should use at least 1/4 cup of olive oil. Keep adding it, it is the secret to keeping your weight in check and your heart healthy.

Dice chicken and add with several cloves of pressed or diced garlic, and a couple of tablespoons, or more of grated fresh ginger (don’t bother to peel, it’s good for you too). Fry for a couple more minutes, but don’t overdo the veggies!

Divide rice on two plates, add stir fried veggies and chicken and nuts.

Serve with more wine. Clink your glasses, look into your partner’s eyes and appreciate your good fortune.

Later a plate of fruit, sliced pears is a favorite of ours. Later still, have two or three squares of dark chocolate.

All this is to be enjoyed with your favorite music, candles if you like. Concentrate on your company and your food. Absolutely NO TV. TV can ruin the best meal.

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Good-bye Tai Shan

We recently rode our bicycle from Chengdu across the SW China mountains (Himalayas and Tibetan plateau). We began in Chengdu and visited the Giant Panda Breeding Center. Lucky, our stuffed panda, made the visit with and was not sure what to think of the really really big (to him) pandas. Tai Shan is leaving National Zoo today for the Giant Panda Breeding Center, Chengdu, China. Video of Tia Shan at the National Zoo made him the most popular Panda ever. Thousands tuned in daily to watch his clumsy antics.

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Uighurs Make An Impact

There has been no Internet in Far West China (Xinjiang) since the violence between Han Chinese and the native Uighurs. Some reports have as many as 500,000 Hans leaving Xinjiang since the violence, and the Chinese government now allowing Hans to sell to anyone other than a Han if they leave. This could put a big time kibosh on the governments’s plans to flood the remote province with Hans.

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Haiti: Pain and Lessons to be Learned

Don’t take a predetermined tour. The tour leaders are sure you don’t want to meet the real people, but a sanitized version of folk presentations. Travel independently, and don’t always stay in the travel destinations, the tourist towns; stay in smaller towns or villages, spread your money around. Look that street vendor in the eye while you negotiate some mystery meat on a stick. Return her smile. Not only will you have more fun, more memories, but that street vendor will remember that some Americans actually cared enough to want to see her village, and how she lives.

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Shangri-la Posts In Reading Order

Bob and Claire Rogers have moved their Shangri-la, 2009 Asian Adventure blogs to a First to Last blog format. Relive their adventures from Tibetan China through Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand.

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Coming Soon! All Shangri-la Posts In Reading Order, One to ?

Blogs are great when the events are happening day to day, but if you miss one, or a week or a month, it’s hard to find your way back. Soon you all of our Shangri-la blogs will be available here for your to read in order. Watch this space for more information on how to see them.

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To Your Adventurous 2010

prayer flags in tibet

“With coarse rice to eat, with water to drink, and my bended arm for a pillow – I have still joy in the midst of these things. Riches and honors acquired by unrighteousness are to me as a floating cloud.” Confucius

Before we began our Asian tandem bicycle adventure, I read Confucian quotes and often couldn’t relate.  This I chalked up to lack of depth on my part, and perhaps the enigmatic (to us) nature of Eastern thought.

Muddling my way through jet lag on our return, and as one friend opined, postpartum depression at the end of another adventure, I pondered the above Confucianism anew, and discovered I suddenly understood. Oh, I had known the surface meaning, from earlier adventures involving discomfort, danger, but not the full depth of his thought. I suddenly noticed that he says, “…have still joy…”  not “…still have joy…” as I had first read it. His meaning was hidden from me until I had eaten enough coarse rice, drank enough wood smoke infused water and slept sufficient times with my bended arm for a pillow.

To have a still joy, a quiet joy, a joy devoid of external condition, of riches or renown, is to have a profound joy, a lasting joy. I will look back on the past four months for as many years as I have left. I will remember the struggles, the discomforts, the challenge of the unknown, even the moments of  near panic, and I will smile. Confucius traveled China, seeking knowledge, seeking deep understanding. And Claire and I did also.

On this blog we have shared the light moments as well as the challenges and discomforts. I hope in coming months, as we integrate the lessons learned and share them, that you will be enriched through our seeking. And then I hope some of you will open a new path for learning, and seek out the adventure that fits your nature and capabilities. We all have the desire to continue to grow, to explore the previously unknown, no matter our age or condition in life. To suppress that desire is to suffer loss.

Here’s to your adventurous 2010, and beyond.

Happy New Year

Christmas Card from Bangkok

Happy Christmas from Bangkok

Happy Christmas from Bangkok

Happy Christmas from Bangkok, from Bob and Claire and Lucky. P-bear, Lai Lai and Foster send their best wishes from Tucson.

We’ll celebrate by crossing the International Date Line on Christmas Day. Does that mean we get Christmas twice?

Happy Christmas

Claire and Bob Rogers

PS. See a video of us having a look-back at our Shangri-la journey from Bangkok, Christmas Eve day.

Bangkok; a Shangri-la among World Cities

Guardian Figure at Wat in Bangkok; Scary eh.

Guardian Figure at Wat in Bangkok; Scary eh.

Claire: With so many temples and shrines around Bangkok, a poor tourist can’t go wrong visiting any one of them–they’re all beautiful. The best part is that the less famous of them still stand apart from the hustle-bustle of the city and provide a welcome relief of quiet and reflection without the crowds to interfere. Morning is a good time to observe Thai acts of generosity and devotion. Put down the camera, pocket the map, forget the time and just take it all in.

Golden Stupa

Golden Stupa

Bob: This is the second long tour we have ended with a stay in Bangkok. After 11 months cycling around Australia, we spent 10 days here, and this time we cycled from China and will spend eight days here before flying out on Christmas Day.

It’s very easy to lose a week in Bangkok. It is more Western than it was when we were here last nearly 10 years ago, but still exotic, still endearing in so many ways. The people are beautiful, the traffic reasonable, compared to China, and the food, the food, heavenly, and inexpensive. Oh, the weather is not bad either, after you become accustomed to sunshine and 90f.

The air quality has improved, or perhaps it is the season, with reliable winds each afternoon; there are fewer motorcycles and more cars, a bad thing, but the motos and tuk tuks are now mostly four-stroke and cleaner.

Bangkok is a great city for your first taste of Asia. Among large cities of the world, it is a Shangri-la.

Longtail Boat on Chao Phraya River

Longtail Boat on Chao Phraya River

Fertility Linga Among the Fish at a Neighborhood Market in Bangkoki

Fertility Linga Among the Fish at a Neighborhood Market in Bangkoki

Orchid, one of many found all over Bangkok

Orchid, one of many found all over Bangkok

Stupas and Offerings in Bangkok

Stupas and Offerings in Bangkok

Most Important Buddah In Thailand

Most Important Buddah In Thailand

Woman Making Offering At Market Shrine in Bangkok

Woman Making Offering At Market Shrine in Bangkok

Beautiful Wat architecture in Bangkok

Beautiful Wat architecture in Bangkok

Peppers In Bangkok Market

Peppers In Bangkok Market

Bangkok, Stupa in Wat

Bangkok, Stupa in Wat

World's Largest Reclining Buddah

World’s Largest Reclining Buddah

Monitor Lizard in Bangkok Cana

Monitor Lizard in Bangkok Canal

Thailand: No Baht, and Asia Roads

Claire:
Our first night in Thailand was spent without any Baht, the Thai currency. Crossing from Cambodia, we breezed through so easily that we bypassed one ATM, then found another, but it was out of order. We weren’t worried, because most places in Cambodia took U.S. dollars anyway. Not here. After having a drink vendor every five kilometers in Cambodia, Thailand seemed almost vacant. When we finally found a place to stay, it was a peculiar resort/bottled water producer/truck stop all in one. After several phone calls, the motel agreed to take our dollars (at an advantageous rate). We also ate dinner and breakfast there. The food was great and we were just glad to have a place to stay and food to eat.

Thai Tour Bus

Thai Tour Bus

Bob:
This tour bus/truck accident had to be fatal. The truck was
destroyed, and from the looks of this bus, the driver and tour leader were killed, and no doubt some passengers.

The wreck was probably less than an hour old, and I almost felt like I knew someone on the bus. We had dinner with a Dutch tour guide, Fritz, who was cycling through Cambodia on holiday, but he wasn’t to be back to work yet.I think the feeling came from the way the Thai busses have such spectacular and individual paint designs. It makes them feel almost personal to me.

We have seen the immediate aftermath of many, I repeat many, accidents on this 2854 mile tour. We saw an accident the first day out of Chengdu, China, and it didn’t let up.

Motobike Wreck Scene Painted On Pavement in Vietnam

Motobike Wreck Scene Painted On Pavement in Vietnam

In SE Asia they mark the pavement with white paint, showing the outlines of where the victims, and their vehicles came to rest. The first few of these fairly fresh markings were a bit shocking, but we became accustomed to them. The bent bicycle, with a person lying motionless in a rice paddy of Yunnan Provence, China, was more personal.

The majority of the accidents were motorbikes, with bicycles coming in a close second. In most of SE Asia, motorbikes outnumber autos and trucks 50 to 1, but bicycles are just on the bottom of the food chain.

Zippy is now safely in Left Luggage at the airport. He is a bit the worse for wear, but the great Thai food to be had in Bangkok will, over the next several days, repair us sufficiently for the flight home.

This is our second extended visit to Bangkok, the first being after our year cycling around Australia. It’s a facinating city, and we will be sharing pictures and hopefully some videos.

We fly home Christmas Day. After the New Year we will take time to reflect on the journey in search of Shangri-la, what we found, what we learned, and what it has meant to us.

Lucky’s Blog: Monkey Business

MonkeyBusiness

Monkey Business

There are some funny things in the jungle. I don’t know what this thing was about. Bob stop him from grab me. I was scared. I don’t care to be used as a model for Bob’s camera thing. But this time I think I was got carried away to some tree and ate. I don’t want to be ate. I not taste good anyway.

I still enjoy visits to the fallen down old rock buildings. There’s lots  in the jungle. Some of them are getting eaten by big trees. It’s spooky sometimes. Bob and Claire like to climb up to the top on little tiny steps. I hide in Bob’s camera bag; pandas don’t climb high.

Lucky from Angkor Wat

Lucky from Angkor Wat

Lucky from Angkor Wat

We took Zippy to  ride yesterday to some place said Angkor Wat. Claire told it was a  important place. It is made of rocks people carved and piled up to make temples to a bunch of gods.

They have scary demons for gods to fight, or something. There is big snakes, elephants, and too, a crocodile carved into walls, and other stuff too.

There are whole armies fighting and different of their big important gods, including Buddha. I’m can’t know how they remember all these gods, but they must have been important for them to do hard work.

Oh, there are 1876 dancing nymphs carved there too, and Bob took a lot of pictures of them.

We went to several other temples that were just as interesting. Claire says we’re going to more today and tomorrow. I’m getting tired, and Bob wants a nap, but Claire says we’ll only be here once, so we gotta keep up to go.

Zippy and me liked the ride back best. It being dark and we no lights. Bob and Claire pedaled fast. We passed bicycles and tuk tuks and even cars. Then me and Bob talked to a little girl selling postcards while Claire got food.

Bob says they’ll put up some more pictures when he finds something called bandwidth. I don’t know what is, but he always grouches about it.

I having fun!

bye,

Lucky

Morning in Kompong Cham

Mekong

Mekong

Nice Frogs For Sale; Want Some Frogs?

Nice Frogs For Sale; Want Some Frogs?

Helper

Helper

Silver Dollars

Silver Dollars

Selection

Selection

fruit

Modern Cambodian Market Woman

Modern Cambodian Market Woman

Sunrise over the Mekong and a morning spent in one of our favorite Asian markets; wonderful coffee and spring rolls at a market stand started our day off right.

We leave the Mekong for good soon, and we will miss it. The river is the lifeblood of SE Asia, and the people use it fully.

We were not far from the river’s source in the Tibetan lands of the Himalaya and enjoyed it in Laos and the delta in Vietnam. It is truly one of the world’s great rivers and we are privileged to have seen so much of it, and it’s people.

The Mekong: Life Along a Slow River

The Mighty Mekong braids its way across Cambodia and Vietnam and supports a huge population. There are many islands with no bridges or ferry services. At the Cambodia border we took a slow boat up the river for a good look at river life from water level, and then a 108k ride the next day beside or near the river in Cambodia. Here are some photos of those two great days:

Panorama of Cambodian Life (click for full size, its big)

Panorama of Cambodian Life (click for full size, its big)

 

Man throwing a net on a backwater of the Mekong in Cambodia

Man throwing a net on a backwater of the Mekong in Cambodia

Sunset over Phu Chau

Sunset over Phu Chau

Workers

Workers

Patient horse in Cambodia. They reminded me of Turkish horses in their size, ability to haul large loads at a beautiful trot.

Patient horse in Cambodia. They reminded me of Turkish horses in their size, ability to haul large loads at a beautiful trot.

Cambodian bus; the ultimate in appropriate technology.

Cambodian bus; the ultimate in appropriate technology.

Washing His Tractor

Washing His Tractor

Protecting Her Face From the Sun

Protecting Her Face From the Sun

Learning the Trade

Learning the Trade

Not Much Freeboard

Not Much Freeboard

Language Lesson

Language Lesson

Home and Business on the Mekong

Home and Business on the Mekong

On the Mekong life is Smiles

On the Mekong life is Smiles

Slow Boat to Cambodia

[httpv://youtu.be/Qk9mA51jhE8]

After taking the wrong ferry to the border, we finally found our way to a the most laid back border crossing yet. However after we started riding to the Cambodian border station, we discovered the nice small paved road turned to a dirt path, and would be like that for up to 40K, and we didn’t have much water.

After another easy time with our visas into Cambodia, we discovered a small wood boat at the dock and found we could take it four hours to a town with accommodation for $10: both of us, Zippy and Lucky; such a deal.

Lots of photos from our first two days in Cambodia next post.

Haircut and Ear Wax Removal, All One Price

Ear wax removal at the barbers

Ear wax removal at the barbers

One reason you should get away from the tourist avenue and explore the nearby local’s alley. Near China Beach in Vietnam, I got a haircut, and a scary but effective, ear wax removal for a grand total of  about $1. Now the loud truck and bus horns will really hurt!

Buddhist Festival Invitation

[httpv://youtu.be/rTPvCT_ZMb4/]

“Wait! Bob, stop: there’s another temple and it looks like there must be something going on.” I’ll just dash in and take a quick photo. Soon, I was talking to Winnie, an English teacher, while Bob was surrounded by curious men. We’d happened upon a Buddhist celebration revering mothers. How appropriate that I’ve been hearing my mother’s voice telling me about Saigon before I was born. We listened to the chants and gongs and were soon invited to the feast to follow. I watched Winnie tenderly feed her animated 90-year-old grandmother. I told Winnie how lucky she was to still have her mother and grandmother. We tried, unsuccessfully, to fend off the large quantities of food that were being packed for us to ride away with. After meeting with the head monk and making conversation, Bob was able to give our translator the gift of a pair of reading glasses, which he evidently needed.

First Impressions of The Mekong Delta

No Cars or Trucks in this part of the Mekong Delta

No Cars or Trucks in this part of the Mekong Delta

Mid Afternoon Shade Hammock and Soda Break (check out the 7UP bottle)

Mid Afternoon Shade Hammock and Soda Break (check out the 7UP bottle

We are enjoying our first day in the Mekong delta; the ferry crossings, river views, the traditional, and rapidly changing ways of life. We hope to post some videos as we cycle upriver on what we think is a riverside tiny road. We’ll give it a go tomorrow.

Ferry Crossing in the Mekong Delta

Ferry Crossing in the Mekong Delta

Pretty Girls Everywhere!

Pretty Girls Everywhere!

Man Praying in a Temple

Man Praying in a Temple

Zippy: 40,000th mile.

Give or take 100 miles, Zippy has carried us 40,000 miles around the world. He was allowed his wish, and said he wanted to play in Saigon traffic. We gave him his wish. Claire is amazed at how many near misses Zippy had; she could fee the heat from the motorcycle mufflers. Imagine what this would be like if all these motorcycles were cars! I would have liked to have been here when they were all bicycles. Well, on second thought, maybe not.

We could have never dreamed of this day when we rode away from our home in Dungeness, Washington. We are thankful for the adventures, the new friends, and the direction our lives have taken. It is amazingly appropriate that we reached this milepost in the city where Claire was born, 45 years ago.

We have a date with the mighty Mekong tomorrow. We first saw the muddy waters of the Mekong in Yunnan province China, still high in the mountains. It will be a very different river in the delta as it nears the sea.

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What is it with us and drunks?

Tonight we were walking home from a very nice dinner on China Beach, when we heard, then saw a motorcycle crash across the street. We hurried across to try and help. We found a man out cold, a cigarette in his hand, and gasoline leaking from the motorcycle. Claire crushed the cigarette and threw it away, and I got the motorcycle off him, and upright so the gasoline would stop spilling, and turned off the key.

We tried to rouse him, and were greeted with soft moans for a couple of minutes until his eyes opened. We checked him for damage and found mostly abrasions, and apparently a very sore head because he kept rubbing it and groaning. We encouraged him, kept him awake, and checked him out as best we could in the darkness. We haven’t seen a policeman since we arrived in Vietnam, and passers-by showed no inclination to stop, so we knew we needed to help him.

Within a few minutes, he managed to get astride his motorcycle. I was about to remove the key and hide it, he was obviously drunk, when another motorcycle stopped for our waving. We got lucky. The young woman, riding behind her boyfriend, spoke some English.

By now our friend was lucid enough to understand we weren’t going to let him ride. He was able to tell her a phone number, and she made a contact with a family member. She said she would stay with him until they came.

That’s when he began to throw up great volumes of dinner and booze. Everybody jumped away from him; it was impressive. It must have made him feel better, because he smiled at us. We had been patting him on the back and offering encouraging words, so he wanted to shake hands with us both. We agreed to wash our hands as soon as we got back to the hotel.

I’m glad we stopped and roused him when he chundered. Had we not forced him awake, he could have drown in his own puke. It happened to a college acquaintance of mine.

Our hotel is close, so I went back a big bottle of water, and that cheered him. His wife was there by then, and I felt sorry for her. I doubt this is the first time for him, he wasn’t young, probably in his 40’s.

So now we know how some of those 25,000 motorcycle accidents a day happen in Vietnam. We hope most of them happen at night. We have Zippy parked by sunset.

Vietnam: Photos and Comments

A Facebook friend commented that she loved Vietnam. Unfortunately, I can’t ask her what specifically she loved about Vietnam because we are again in a country that doesn’t allow Facebook. This country takes some of its culture from China: we’re back to eating our food with chopsticks and some of the dishes are very similar. I like Vietnam but I guess the noise is dampening my enthusiasm a little. We had grown accustomed to the quieter nature of Laos. Buses and trucks have the same loud horns here as they do in China, though perhaps with a little more variety and expression. The traffic is enough to freeze you in your tracks. Bob nearly got run down twice trying to cross one street.

We’re adapting though and learning to find alternates to Highway 1A that are a little quieter: the route over Hai Van Pass avoided the 10 kilometer tunnel and offered nice views in spite of the weather.

Mom delivering child to school, Hue style

Mom delivering child to school, Hue style

One Last Pass-It Was Easy And Fun

One Last Pass-It Was Easy And Fun

Gathering Greens For Our Lunch

Gathering Greens For Our Lunch

China Beach Vietnam on a Stormy Day

China Beach Vietnam on a Stormy Day

Figure over the door of the Imperial Inclosure in Hue, Vietnam

Figure at the East gate of the Imperial Enclosure in Hue, Vietnam

Lotus flowers in Hue, Vietnam

Lotus flowers in Hue, Vietnam

Bob: I am of the Vietnam generation. A bleeding ulcer (real) and arthritis (really just gout) kept me from coming here under different circumstances. I was young and patriotic, if conflicted about the war, and would have served if drafted, but didn’t have that choice. Over the years my survivors guilt has grown, as I have met so many veterans damaged mentally, if not physically, by their experience in Vietnam. On our first long tour, around the U.S. we met (camped with often) many Vietnam vets who were homeless. There are still many homeless vets from the American War, as they call it here.

It’s odd to be here on China Beach, where so many of vets came for R&R.  If you plan to return, be aware that the Chinese have bought up most of the land facing the beach, and planning huge high-rise developments, quite different from the mid sized hotels here now, which are probably themselves post war. I’m sure it’s very tame compared to those days. I’d love to see comments from you about your experiences on China Beach.

Dogtags For Sale in Hue

Dogtags For Sale in Hue

For cyclists: I think the Vietnam experience, along the coast, has probably been changed negatively forever by too much exposure to foreign cyclists, mostly on supported tours. Almost every international cycle touring company lists the coast of Vietnam tour. The sheer numbers on busy 1A has led to a certain disdain, and worse, sense of entitlement in the people, particularly the children. For the first time in our 40,000 miles of touring, we have heard, “money, money, money,” on our passing, and outstretched hands from children chanting, “dollar, dollar!” Coming from Laos, where the children were so delightful, this has been hard to take. My advice, go somewhere perhaps more challenging, but where your money is more needed, and you will be welcomed for your person, not your money. If you want to come to Vietnam, spend most of your time in the mountains, where the hill people are more like the Lao.

Zippy on China Beach

Zippy on China Beach

Plowing in the rain

Plowing in the rain

Vietnamese Cemetery, they are everywhere

Vietnamese Cemetery, they are everywhere

Vietnam: The Mountains

On a flood damaged road in the Central Highlands of Vietnam

On a flood damaged road in the Central Highlands of Vietnam

Life on the river, Vietnam

Life on the river, Vietnam

Central Highlands of Vietnam

Central Highlands of Vietnam

Boats made from scavanged military parts

Boats made from scavenged military parts

Quang Tri River in Vietnam

Quang Tri River in Vietnam

War Relic in the mountains of Vietnam

War Relic in the mountains of Vietnam

School Girls

School Girls

Catholic Church in Vietnam

Catholic Church in Vietnam

Disarmed bombs used as fence posts near the Lao/Vietnam border.

Disarmed bombs used as fence posts near the Lao/Vietnam border.

Incense burning on military graves in Vietnam

Incense burning on military graves in Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh Trail: Six of Six

[httpv://youtu.be/FS8KuXoCseo]

This is final video about our search for one of the branches of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. There were many branches of the trail, in Laos as well as Vietnam. We wanted to see if we could find one of the branches, or at least have a better understanding of the experience those who traveled on the Laos portions of the trail lived. We got more than we bargained for…

Ho Chi Minh Trail: Five of Six

[httpv://youtu.be/ZEe1msNS_2E]

This is one of a series of six videos about our search for one of the branches of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. There were many branches of the trail, in Laos as well as Vietnam. We wanted to see if we could find one of the branches, or at least have a better understanding of the experience those who traveled on the Laos portions of the trail lived. We got more than we bargained for…

Ho Chi Minh Trail: Four of Six

[httpv://youtu.be/LpG2kWDnhKY]

This is one of a series of six videos about our search for one of the branches of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. There were many branches of the trail, in Laos as well as Vietnam. We wanted to see if we could find one of the branches, or at least have a better understanding of the experience those who traveled on the Laos portions of the trail lived. We got more than we bargained for…

Ho Chi Minh Trail: Three of Six

[httpv://youtu.be/loKiD3nCDU8]

This is one of a series of six videos about our search for one of the branches of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. There were many branches of the trail, in Laos as well as Vietnam. We wanted to see if we could find one of the branches, or at least have a better understanding of the experience those who traveled on the Laos portions of the trail lived. We got more than we bargained for…

Hoh Chi Minh Trail: Two of Six

[httpv://youtu.be/Mt1TvXtL4X4]

This is one of a series of six videos about our search for one of the branches of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. There were many branches of the trail, in Laos as well as Vietnam. We wanted to see if we could find one of the branches, or at least have a better understanding of the experience those who traveled on the Laos portions of the trail lived. We got more than we bargained for…

Ho Chi Minh Trail; One of Six

[httpv://youtu.be/NA0VMYO1Lw0]

This is the first of a series of six videos about our search for one of the branches of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. There were many branches of the trail, in Laos as well as Vietnam. We wanted to see if we could find one of the branches, or at least have a better understanding of the experience those who traveled on the Laos portions of the trail lived. We got more than we bargained for…

Watch for one each day.

New Adventure Plans

Morning in Laos

Morning in Laos

Claire has been getting bored with same old same old exotic Laos, so now we’re headed off on a backroads, dirt roads, “shortcut” to the Vietnam border. We’re looking for a branch of the old Ho Che Minh Trail. That was just the thing to get her excited. It has something to do with her being born in Vietnam, and going back. We’ll be in Laos still, but will be asking directions (sound familiar) and using the compass to make decisions. It could be easy. We’ll see.

We’ve enjoyed the last few days following the Mekong south, and seeing the landscape and people change slowly.

Pineapple Breakfast Prepared By this find Lady

Pineapple Breakfast Prepared By this fine Lady

Couple Running Their Nets

Couple Running Their Nets In A Backwater Of The Mekong

The Broom Lady Begins Her Rounds

The Broom Lady Begins Her Rounds

She pours out the eggs, scrambles them, pours them back in the shell and then steams them. A lot of work for a hard boiled egg.

She pours out the eggs, scrambles them, pours them back in the shell and then steams them. A lot of work for a hard boiled egg.

Vientiane

Lotus Blossoms

Lotus Blossoms

A couple more mere blips of hills, and we are now in the valley of the Mekong, for the next week, before turning toward Vietnam. We arrived in the Capitol, Vientiane yesterday and applied for our Vietnamese visa. Claire got a bit of the last day of the Full Moon festival on video, and we will enjoy this small city for a day, possibly two. She’s over his gastro-intestinal episode, and ready to pedal. She finally found her French Toast! Unfortunately the only syrup they had on offer, was honey. Maple syrup comes from Quebec, for the French, and there are few French to be seen in the former colony, though we do see some of the language, Lao and English appear to be dominant. I can imagine that upsets the French.

Wahoo!

Wahoo!

We saw a single cyclist on the way into the city, met a couple just beginning their tour last night, and another this morning, heading south ahead of us. All are European and speak English. It was enjoyable to converse about our shared passion, places we have been, and share information about the road ahead. The single male, has cycle toured 100,000 kilometers.

Cemetery in Laos

Cemetery in Laos

Steve Wilson just passed 100,000 miles bicycling; congratulations Steve! So there is your new goal Steve. He was probably about your age, but started many years ago. But, it’s only 62,000 miles.

I don’t believe I have the desire for another 40,000 kilometers. Claire said we could do two more loops of Australia. We’ve been talking a lot about Australia on this trip. I think it may be our favorite, though North America still has some unexplored, by us, wonderful places.

We’ll post pictures of the last few days below. We  have scheduled some short videos, one from back in China over the next few days. John Hoyle pointed out that I can schedule posts ahead, so you hear from us, even while we are out there pedaling the Internet-less countryside.

Small Longtail in Laos

Small Longtail in Laos

Frangi Pangi

Frangi Pangi

Rice Fields

Rice Fields

Drum Tower at Wat in Laos

Drum Tower at Wat in Laos

At the Full Moon Festival

At the Full Moon Festival

National and  Party Flags of Laos

National and Party Flags of Laos

Symbol of French Colonialism in Laos, Vientiane

Symbol of French Colonialism in Laos, Vientiane

Sunset on the Mekong

Sunset on the Mekong

He Broke Our Hearts

This is an experience from China. We decided to hold it for awhile.

We often come across people who want to share their troubles, their very personal stories with us. Perhaps it is because we will pedal out of their lives, and carry part of their burden with us. They are right. This is the first time a person has been so bent to telling us his story, that he ignored or forgot that we could not understand a word he said.

One evening, after a hard day in the saddle, we made our way to the fandian at our small Chinese guest house. A man sat at a short table, on a tiny stool. He was bent and nodding. When he saw us he began to insist that we join him in a drink. He had a bottle of clear liquor on the table, and a full meal, untouched. We politely refused and ordered, but he continued his invitation. The waitress tipped an imaginary bottle behind his back to indicate that he was drunk and to ignore him.

He began a speech of sorts. It included numerous Meiguos, accompanied by thumbs up, meaning he liked America. We  politely listened for awhile and said several times, “Wo ting bu dong,” which means “I don’t understand.” This did not deter him and he went on with what increasingly became clear to us,  a tale of personal woe.

He was small, middle aged and Han, dressed in his Saturday night black and red athletic shoes, patterned jeans, and what looked like an army jacket, sans patches; perhaps he had been a soldier. As he got deeper into his cups, his emotions found expression in his face and hands. He touched his eyebrow, rubbed his hand from forehead to chin, shook his head. Once he traced a tear coming from his eye with an index finger, and even used it to show him slitting his own throat.

The three employees tried various ways to get him to leave us alone, and laughed quietly when it became obvious that we were trying very hard to understand him and failing.

There was something about the intensity of his emotion that held us. The expression of his being flowed unabated, as he desperately tried to get two lao wai to understand his pain. He needed us to listen. Even if we all knew we could not understand him, he had to tell his story. We had to listen.

Finally he sank lower on his stool as the alcohol began to take control, and we rose to leave. But we had to do one more thing – touch him. We both patted him on the back and told him it would be alright, things would be better. It may have been the first time he had been touched in a long time. It was all we could do. It was the right thing to do. We will remember it for a long time.

Bikinis, Tibetan Mountains and Stone Jars

Claire: Nothing makes us more stubborn than being told we can’t accomplish our goal.

Stone Jar and Bomb Crater on Plane of Jars, Laos

Stone Jar and Bomb Crater on Plane of Jars, Laos

The nice German tried to break it to us gently that we would probably have to stay with a Lao family because we would not make the big climbs ahead, 1600 meters for the day and it was already noon. He was almost right, we almost didn’t make it. Though we wouldn’t have minded staying with a family, we pushed on a little longer than usual because of his remark. It was a two Nescafe day.

We took a bus excursion to Phonsavan to save ourselves pedaling two days out and back to see the Plain of Jars. The massive, ancient stone jars are intriguing, but what really struck me with awe was envisioning them bouncing and shattering from the impact of the bombs that left huge, diving pool size craters. Some of the answers to the questions surrounding the 2500 year old relics may have been blown to bits.

Soapy Boy Chasing Zippy

Soapy Boy Chasing Zippy

I never did get credit from Bob for pulling off a perfectly timed one day excursion: We rode 50 kilometers by 12:30, found a guesthouse, unloaded and locked Zippy, showered, packed an overnight bag, found the bus ticket seller in the village and were on a bus to Phonsavan by 2:00. Once in Phonsavan, we teamed with Lorenz and Alex in a tuk-tuk to the Kongkeo Guesthouse where we booked the tour for the next day and even arranged for them to drop us back at the bus station at the end of the tour. We made it back to Zippy by 8:30 that night. Okay, it was all just dumb luck.

Bad luck did find me in the form of some foul lettuce. That took a day and some fat out of me, but I’m sure glad Bob didn’t get sick, he doesn’t have any fat to spare.

Though the karst topography is scenic, we’re looking forward to a few less hills. Once in Vientiane, we’ll be riding along the Mekong; the lower elevation will mean warmer temperatures. Let’s hope the roads are good.

Lao Karst Mountains

Lao Karst Mountains

I thought Lonely Planet was joking when they said Vang Vieng was full of backpackers all watching Friends reruns in the bars, but they’re mostly right. It is a strange scene to come upon overfed, tattooed and bikini-clad western girls when the most flesh we’ve seen lately has been on dark, skinny, naked Lao children bathing at the standpipe.

Bob: Claire is not kidding about the fat girls. A bit of weight that comes naturally with age is fine, but to jiggle like Jello at 23, and flaunt it, is bad form. The boys are just pale and flaccid, and drunk by noon. Bah Humbug. I’m getting old.

Mountains

It does appear we are mostly out of the mountains, finally. I think, but I have been wrong before. I looked at our stats, and we will be a little over 1,500 miles for two months. That is very slow for us on tour, as we usually do more like 1,000 to 1,500 per month. Now we are getting older, we would expect our average to come down a bit, but never have we had so many mountains. Of the 1,500 miles, 1,300 were in mountains with climbs of 2,000 to 7,000 feet per day, and many of those climbs were at very high elevation. Neither of those numbers is too bad, except when they come day after day after day, with no let up. For two weeks in Tibetan Sichuan, we were doing those climbs at elevations of 13,500 to nearly 16,000 feet. That was, to put it nicely, hard.

Mountain Panorama of Laos

Mountain Panorama of Laos

When we got to Northern Yunnan, we thought it would ease off, but it was not to be again. The climbs kept coming, just at a bit lower elevation. After the bus ride to Southern Yunnan the mountains continued into Northern Laos, where we were again sure they would at least become hills. It was not to be. Just three riding days ago, we climbed 1,600 meters, or 5,250 feet. This is not a bad day for us in Tucson, on our old but still fairly light road bikes, but on a loaded tandem, in heat and humidity, with 3300 feet waiting the next day, exhausting.

Karst in Central Laos

Karst in Central Laos

I look back at our first tour of the U.S., and the Rockies were with us for a long time, but the top elevation was just over 12,000 feet, and there were rolling plains between the ranges. The Himalayas of Southwest China gave no breaks, and Northern Laos the same, just lower in elevation. British Columbia and Alberta have a lot of big climbs, but the top elevation was 8,000 feet or so, and most of the climbs under 4,000 feet.

So, who is to blame for all these mountains? Me. I could have researched the route and known how hard it would be. But, my natural optimism led me to believe whatever mountains China and Laos threw at us, we would be able to handle. Well, it was close.

But, Stubbornness is our name, tenacity is our game. Now it gets easy, just heat and humidity, and I think there might be some little hills on the border with Vietnam, and some in Cambodia. Not to worry; can’t be much.

A few pictures from the last few days:

Net Fisherman in Laos

Net Fisherman in Laos

Home for Lunch

Home for Lunch

Laos Mountain Scene

Laos Mountain Scene

Working the Rice

Working the Rice

Monk on a Bicycle in Laos

Monk on a Bicycle in Laos

Helping Dad

Helping Dad

Hey! That's My Frog!

Hey! That’s My Frog!

He Found His Shangri-la

His Shangri-la

His Shangri-la

His Shangri-la is Lao

We stopped in the middle of a four hour mountain climb south of Luang Prabang, for a cold drink and some shade. A man came out of the house next door, and I glanced his way. Nah. He looked farang (Western) but it couldn’t be, this far out of the city, in a tiny village. Something about the way he moved about the house, helped a small boy with his shoes, said he belonged here, lived here.

I saw the beard, the nose, yup, farang. He turned to us and said, “Hello.” We spoke, he in a vaguely European accent with excellent English. He said he was German, and had traveled by bicycle, for five years, around the world. We shared touring stories, favorite places, bicycles. He said we could never make the climb by the end of the day, and the worse one waiting after that. We hoped he was wrong.

I wanted to know how he ended up in Laos, and how long he had been there. I waited. It would come.

He began his story: He got food poisoning in Laos. After five years of bicycle touring around the world, he was stuck in Luang Prabang. Then he met her, and his life changed forever. They married, have two children, and he has been in Laos for seven years. He manages a pig farm for his father-in-law, and the family spends half the week in Luang Prabang, where their children can get an adequate education, and half on the farm.

I asked him if he would ever go back to Germany, take his family. He smiled, “Never.” He is Lao now, family man, farmer, happy, healthy. He found what many would call his Shangri-la. His is real. A beautiful wife, comfortable home, two much loved children. So, for some seekers, Shangri-la becomes more than fantasy, an ideal, but a day to day life, real.

He traveled alone those five years on his bicycle; we know just how many pedal strokes that is. He was searching for something, Shangri-la maybe. He entered Laos from Yunnan China, mythical location of mythical Shangri-la, as we did. He hadn’t found it there, lovely as it is. Food poisoning brought it to him, it brought him love and purpose.

Where he lives is beautiful, very, very beautiful. The people are poor, but they laugh at, and with, we crazy farangs pedaling through their lives. They bathe by the roadside at a cold water stand pipe, and instead of complaining, laugh. They expect little, and appreciate much. Perhaps our German friend, now Lao, saw that, and the light of his love’s eyes, and knew he was home, in Shangri-la.

We didn’t get his name, but he has this site and we hope he will e-mail us. We will publish his name and correct any miss-perceptions. We’d also like him to know we made it to Kiukacham, just before dark. It was our hardest day in Laos.

Christmas? Now in a Lao Shangri-la

Christmas? Now in a Lao Shangri-la

Lucky Visits the Plain of Jars

There were all these big things made out of rock in Laos on the Plain of Jars. I got to look at the jars and saw myself in the water. Lorenz and Alex from Germany laughed. The other two nice people from England were Will and Jo. They introduced me to Eeyore. He is in a famous book called Winnie the Pooh, who is a bear. Eeyore is not a bear. He is a donkey. He is the nice people’s traveling companion. Just like me! We had a visit about our travels. He has his own web page. He doesn’t have to share one with his people, like I do.

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Luang Prabang; World Heritage Site

Here are some photos from a morning walk around Luang Prabang. It is a World Heritage Site for the French Colonial architecture. We found much of that architecture degraded, but the town is very lively. Looking at the pictures, we are obviously more into people and food than architecture!

Sun Umbrellas

Sun Umbrellas

Text Messaging

Text Messaging

Fish Market

Fish Market

Interesting Food!

Interesting Food!

First Breakfast

First Breakfast

Morning Ferry Unloading in Luang Pabang

Morning Ferry Unloading in Luang Prabang

The Tunnel

In Southern Yunnan, we had over twenty tunnels on one stretch of fairly new highway. They ranged from 200 meters to nearly four kilometers (around two and a half miles). One small problem: many of them had few or no lights. Try doing that with one of those little LED headlights with weak AAA batteries. Potholes are my greatest fear; you can only see reflective material.

httpv://youtu.be/Lohkyfz1KnU

My Guaranteed Diet

Ride a heavily loaded tandem bicycle across several 15,000 foot passes and innumerable others at slightly lower levels. Then eat mostly rice and noodles, and get sick of both!

I weigh the same as I did in High School, but about fifteen pounds of muscle have just disappeared! The loose skin bothers me, but I am now on a concerted effort to eat as much of anything as possible and in particular protein. Wish me luck!

torso

Laid Back Laos

We’ve been in the mountains of South Yunnan, China and Laos for several days. Our border crossing between China and Laos went smoothly, but we were unable to find accommodation on the Laos side; there were several hotels in Boten and all were filled with workers building two new hotels.

Lao Scene: In the northern mountans of Laos, near here, we saw men walking with  primitive bows and arrows.

Lao Scene: In the northern mountans of Laos, near here, we saw men walking with primitive bows and arrows.

The genius of central planning; in a year, all the workers will have gone elsewhere and the tourists will all be staying on the China side. Brilliant.

So, we were forced to head down the road in the afternoon sun, hoping for a place to lay our heads. As usual all the land is either too steep to camp on, or has crops growing.

Lao House

Lao House

A short 10 kilometers further, we started asking for accommodation, by pantomiming with two hands beside our heads for sleeping. People kept pointing back the way we came, and we feared they meant China, where we could not go, since we’d had single entry visas.

Finally a woman on a veranda nodded in the affirmative, Claire began her magic, and we soon had a nice clean room for $4.80. It was a very nice traditional Lao house. We left our shoes outside, per tradition, and entered a sanctuary of cool tile and warm wood. We were lucky we couldn’t find a Chinese style hotel in Boten; better to stay in a traditional Lao house in a small village on our first night in Laos.

We immediately headed for the wash up room: tile floor, two barrels of cool water, and a scoop to ladle water over our head and body. It sounds unpleasant, but after a day of difficulties, heat and humidity, it felt wonderful. There was a large metal basin on the floor for washing clothes, and a bar of laundry soap. I remember my mother doing a pre-wash in Fells-Naptha before throwing everything in the old ringer washer. The Lao haven’t gotten to those yet. Everything was very clean and our hostess went to the local store for a mosquito net once we found how to ask for it in the phrase book. We had noticed that the other three rooms were equipped with them.

Next on the agenda, was to find my first BeerLao, supposedly the best lager in SE Asia. It was certainly good, and cold from the closest store, 650ml, $.48. I’ll let you know if it’s the best after a few months.

We sat on the veranda of a woman who was old enough to have learned French under French rule in Laos, and Claire obliged, to the limits of her memory.

I enjoyed my BeerLao, and a fast developing sub-tropical rain storm beating the tin roof, releasing new exotic plant scents, and setting off the family rooster.

Welcome to Laos

Welcome to Laos

We slept well and awoke to the largest grasshopper I’ve ever seen gracing Zippy’s stem. We had a long day today, with more mountains, beautiful mountains, fecund and fragrant, so different from the Tibetan Plateau. The road turned awful; fist sized embedded rocks for kilometers at a time, or worse, a maddening 100 meter patch of bitumen every 500 meters. This was a county connector road, and we expect better very soon.

Claire has mixed emotions about leaving China. She was getting pretty good at carrying on basic conversations (I smile a lot) and now we have a new language to learn. We only have 30 days in Laos, so we won’t learn much before facing yet another language, Vietnamese.

The Internet is rumored to be slow in Laos, appropriate for a third world country, but we hope not so slow as to preclude the videos and photos we enjoy sharing with you. (So far it has taken one-half-hour to upload the grasshopper – we will hope for better in tourist towns a few days from here).

Claire:
I was kind of blue at the thought of leaving China. Twice, we’ve been here now and I wonder if we’ll ever be back again. The people have been very kind to us and I hope we’ve brought them some joy, at least a giggle or a good belly laugh as they take a break from the never-ending work. I wish the best for them.

I was glad to be finished with the countless tunnels along the new highway, some of them as long as nearly four kilometers and some with no lights. Poor Bob had to just aim his light at the yellow line and try to keep his balance. The worst tunnels were the ones with bollards to keep cars from overtaking, which meant we had to stop and pull over to the right as far as we could to let trucks pass. It wasn’t a shoulder, but rather a covered drainage ditch, with some of the concrete covers broken through, so Bob had to pick the right spot to stop. The noise was deafening sometimes and the fumes were thick.

The Xishuangbanna region is definitely more Southeast Asian than it is Chinese, environmentally and culturally. It’s a good transition for us. Though we’re sweltering hot by 10:00 a.m., we expect it to start getting a little cooler over the next month.

So far, I love Laos. We’ve seen all sizes of electric blue and neon yellow butterflies; we can hear insects buzzing, frogs chorusing and birds singing; bright flowers bloom and scent the air. The children are delightful; the little ones run naked after us, scattering chickens, waving and squealing “Sabadee, sabadee!”

Change in Latitude; Arriving in Southern Yunnan

Claire:
With a 13-hour bus ride, we’ve changed the backdrop of our tour from a temperate to a tropical climate. The sleeper bus was an experience we’d wanted to try after seeing them on our 2005 tour. In my research, I learned to expect a noisy, smoky and cramped ride of up to 24 hours. We found the bus fine (no smoking), though we would have both been a little more comfortable if we could have removed our feet along with our shoes, as everyone is required to do. (Stepping on the bus, the first thing I noticed is the smell of sour feet, but I can stand anything for a day.) The bunks shoehorn together with the feet of the  person behind tucking into an angled cubbyhole that props up the head of the person in front.

After a while, we learned to adjust our positions and use extra blankets to prop up our knees. We tossed and rolled through the curves and bumps of the night, glad to not be riding Zippy on these steep, switch-backed and largely unpaved roads. Being at the very back of the bus (not by choice), meant that some bumps launched me clear of my bunk, landing me in a completely different position than the one I’d carefully arranged. I finally started using my safety belt when, unable to sleep around midnight, I watched the bus driver pass fuel trucks on blind curves of a particularly mountainous road.

Lessons learned: Take advantage of every bush break or you’ll regret it later; Women: bring your funnel so you can stand on the roadside along with the men (ignore the curious stares), and never, EVER step anywhere you can’t see (I almost went over a ten-foot wall at the 2:00 a.m. stop and ended up covered in mud from catching myself).  Thirteen hours into the trip, we were just getting the hang of it, so you can imagine our surprise, when at 8:00 a.m., we learned we were already in Jinghong and and had to hastily offload and ready Zippy.  We didn’t expect to arrive until 7:00 p.m. and had planned to shoot a video, read, nap and enjoy the scenery. We’ll be glad to get back on Zippy tomorrow.

Another Transition

Another Transition

Hibiscus in Southern Yunnan

Hibiscus in Southern Yunnan

Woman cops a Nap while selling Chickens

Woman cops a Nap while selling Chickens

Bob:
All we had read about these long haul sleeping buses was that the experience was torture. We are both fairly small people, and that must have helped us find reasonable positions on the tiny beds. We have a motorhome with two bunk beds at the back, and they are two feet longer and a foot wider than these bus beds. The scent was not as bad as it could have been; only one man insisted on smoking, out the window he thought, while we were stopped. I would have died in the old days when smoking was allowed anytime during the trip.

The road was very rough and I am glad we didn’t have to put Zippy through that section; he’s had enough of the fist sized rocks, deep potholes and mud, thought I expect SE Asia will provide more of that.

Besides the great change in plants and weather from 2000 meters down to 550 meters, we have noticed that many of the people do not speak Chinese, and many of the signs are in another language, perhaps Bai (Thai/Lao?). We will soon find out; off tomorrow for a few days cycling in the humid hills for the border with Laos.

I like the food here. The hot is a SE Asia hot, hot but it goes away after awhile, unlike Sichuan hot which lingers. We ate at a street fandian twice today: a bowl of rice topped with any mix of at least a dozen different selections. I picked a smokey fatty hot pork and a couple of vegetables. Yum. I think the best food in Asia is found on the street, but then we never eat at high end places for foreigners; we eat what the people eat.

We sat on a stone planter with construction workers on stools or squatting, shoveling in the good stuff. We went back this evening, tried some different toppings to the rice, and a Snow Mountain beer, as we watched the rush hour of mothers hauling young school children on bicycles, recyclers on their truck/tricycles, buses and motorcycles.

Small groups played cards on short tables under the palms, settling in for a long evening of street socializing. There is no place like Asia. I think we’re going to like this part. I’ll let you know if the hills are smaller after a few days.

Zippy Draws A Crowd

httpv://youtu.be/sTK_-HDTPpk

This interesting thing about this is there were twice as many people before I took out the camera to video. Chinese do not like to be photographed as a part of a crowd, and yet they always like to be a part of a crowd. I wonder if it has to do with how much they are under surveillance, or think they are?

Dali and Plans for Beyond

Snow Mountain

Snow Mountain

October 14, 2009
Leaving Lijiang

Claire:
We may be out of the mountains, but we’re not out of the really big hills yet. Language got in our way again as we attempted to leave Lijiang. I didn’t expect to have trouble, but somehow we missed a turn to the new expressway? and ended up on a road that quickly deteriorated to a dirt track. With no one to ask and no traffic, our confidence that we were on the right track flagged. Everyone we had asked earlier and even the road signs indicated this was the way to the next town, Heqing. But this can’t be right! Finally, after 10 kilometers, we saw the expressway and realized our track was a shortcut to it. Soon enough we were back to wishing for less traffic than was on the expressway. Everyone in China, it seemed, was either on the way to or from Dali. And the mid-autumn holiday is supposed to be over.

Along The Way

Working The Rice Fields

Working The Rice Fields

Making Charcoal By Hand

Making Charcoal By Hand

Harvest Time

Harvest Time


Dali Old Town

One Dali Old Town Gate

One Dali Old Town Gate

"Ethnic" guides in Dali

“Ethnic” guides in Dali

Bob:
Two days from Lijiang, and one big hill later, we are in Dali tourist Mecca for the Chinese if there ever was one. We are not having any luck finding a helmet for Claire, the Chinese only wear helmets, on motorcycles not bicycles, and not many even then. We have glue and will apply it liberally to the crack.

The landscape is changing with big hills farther apart, and the summits at lower elevations. Most of yesterday was in flat rice fields, many being harvested and others being prepared for winter crops, with lots of rice chaff and manure, animal and human, being dug in by hand. The amount of hand labor involved in raising rice here is amazing, but there are a lot of people to do the labor. Large paddies are filled with people doing various jobs, and the roadsides are piled high with manure, or harvested rice, forcing us to compete with buses and trucks for the roadway. When the shoulder (yes they often have them in the flats) is clear we cruise in the mid twenties kph, with little effort.

Yesterday we had bunch of school kids trying to keep up with us on their way home to lunch (they all go home for lunch here, biking). They were all yelling and laughing as we passed; we must be quite a sight to them with all our bags. It’s fun to show them something different. I can imagine them being difficult in afternoon classes, trying to figure out what we were.

We Could Rent This In Dali

We Could Rent This In Dali

We are, however, weeks behind schedule due to the unexpected number of 15,000 ft passes on the Tea Horse Route, our hospital visit, and poor planning on the part of the route planner, me. The mountains took nearly two weeks longer than planned for.

Since we are leaving the mountains now, and the ethnic areas we came to see, now we are going to live dangerously: we will take a bus to southern Yunnan to the sub-tropic mountains, and catch up a bit. Laos calls. Lonely Planet says a long distance bus trip in China is a Rite of Passage. We’ll see.

So did we find Shangri-la?

Of course we did. You knew it all along, didn’t you? Shangri-la is a dream, an imagination, and for us it is The Journey, the travel, the things we learn, the things we see and marvel at, and the others we will never understand.

Come with us to Southeast Asia.

The Journey continues through the mountains of Southern Yunnan and Laos, down the valley of the Mekong, over more mountains into Vietnam, Cambodia and ending in Thailand.

There will be new adventures, new sights and smells, new foods, languages, and surely more of those smiling faces we see so often. The adventure continues. Stay with us.

Smiles

Smiles

Backroads Accommodation in Shangri-la

Thanks to everyone for the comments, especially after our unplanned detour to the hospital. It’s really nice to feel more connected to a community and we love hearing from you.

Zippy Joined Us

Zippy Joined Us

‘I complained because I had no shoes until I met a man who had no feet,’ comes to mind after one of our stays along the backroads of Shangrila. Remember the fun we had with the video detailing the trip across the road, down the stairs and over the bridge to the outhouse? This time we stayed at a “hotel” with no toilet–at all.

The Tibetan women we stayed with earlier were not in business, but this hotel was running an accommodation where the toilet was a five minute walk along the road to where the fence ended and the hillside dropped down through some trees for privacy. One really had to watch one’s step and keep eyes from wandering should another villager be occupying a nearby tree. Even open space here has a purpose. On the bright side, Zippy was able to stay with us for a change, rather than with a baby pig or in the meat locker.

The lone light bulb flickered and faltered in sync with whatever was going on in the family living area next door. We didn’t charge our computer or cameras that night!

China Hotel

Shangri-la Backroads

Misty Morning in Shangri-la (Claire)

Misty Morning in Shangri-la (Claire)

We took the recommendation of Bill Weir and Alice and Andoni, cyclists we’d met way back in Almaty in 2005, and took a back road rather than Highway 214 to Tiger Leaping Gorge. We had at least one climb each day, one day we had three climbs totaling about 18 kilometers. The road is now paved except for washouts and we had very light traffic and beautiful views. Villages along the way were full of hard-working but friendly people eager to say “Hello!”. Coming the backway into Tiger Leaping Gorge was more fun because we didn’t feel so much a part of the tourist hordes. The big rock slide blocked vehicle traffic so we had the gorge to ourselves for most of the morning.

Shangri-la Vista

Shangri-la Vista

Clothsline in Shangri-la

Clothsline in Shangri-la

Plowing with Oxen

Plowing with Oxen

Fall Colors in the Mountains of Shangri-la

Fall Colors in the Mountains of Shangri-la

Nearing Another Pass With Moss Covered Trees

Nearing Another Pass With Moss Covered Trees

Shangri-la Flower

Chinese carrying burden of plants for animalsshangri-la flower

Travertine Pools of Bai Shui Tai

Travertine Pools of Bai Shui Tai

The main reason we went the longer, back way to Lijiang was that I (Claire) wanted to see the travertine terraces at Bai Shui Tai. Unlike at Havasupai, these terraces are perched on a hillside, rather than in a canyon.

Flower in Shangri-la

Flower in Shangri-la

Dahlias grow everywhere.

Carved Headstones

Carved Headstones

Village in Shangri-la

Village in Shangri-la

The expansive valleys on this route were stunning; deep enough that we couldn’t see all the way to the bottom.

Mountains of Shangri-la

Mountains of Shangri-la

Chili Harvest

Chili Harvest

View from our $4.20 room

View from our $4.20 room

Lunch Time in a Shangri-la Field

Lunch Time in a Shangri-la Field

All Dressed Up

All Dressed Up

Hava Snow Mountain

Haba Snow Mountain

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Tiger Leaping Gorge

After the rain in Tiger Leaping Gorge

After the rain in Tiger Leaping Gorge

Detour to the Hospital

Our trip through the back country of Shangri-la turned out to be four days instead of two, due to a landslide and constant big (still) mountains.

First Class Care

First Class Care

Bob:
Yesterday we took a little detour on our way into Lijaing – to the hospital. We crashed. A combination of a long day, with 1200 more meters of climbing, a patch of water laid down by the cooling water of a truck’s brakes, a little bit of clay, and down we went at about 30kph.

Claire was not responding at first and I got her out of traffic carefully, in case any bones were broken (none). I can’t explain how I felt seeing her, barely moving, having trouble hearing me, or answering to her name.  She finally came around, and I got her sitting upright and talking coherently. I checked her eyes for dilation or wandering, and she could focus and had no double vision (we’ve been through this before).

A motorcyclist helped direct traffic as I dragged Zippy to the edge. I started to search for the first aid kit, and by then Claire was thinking clearly enough to tell me where to find it. Before I could start cleaning her abrasions, a van full of police arrived. My first thought was that we were in even more trouble than the crash aftermath, but they were great. “We take you to hospital,” said with authority, had an amazingly calming effect. They commandeered a small pickup, and loaded Zippy in. We wondered if we’d ever see him again, until we saw one of the policemen get into the truck.

Claire:
It’s really frustrating having to admit you need help, but when the police came and said “hospital” I knew we probably should go, even though it meant transporting Zippy some other way, struggling to communicate with doctors or nurses, arriving in an unfamiliar town not under your own power, and worst of all, losing your bearings.

Since I’d lost a minute or two, I had a lot of questions for Bob and it took me a while to come out of the fog that makes you think you’re having a bad dream. I remember knowing we were going down, but that’s all.

At the hospital, we had our scrapes swabbed. They thought my nose might be broken, but I think my glasses just gouged it. I took the hit evenly between shoulder and hip. Bob got it pretty bad on the knee, but it hasn’t swollen. Bob noticed the doctor watching me for signs of brain trauma, and from previous experience, he knew to wake me in the middle of the night to make sure I knew who and where I was. We’re both a little stiff and sore today, so we’ll take an extra day in our three star hotel. (Total hospital bill: $6)

We’ll post our days in the back country soon. Beautiful…

With this sign would have been before that curve!

Wisn this sign had been before that curve!

Shangri-la: More to come

Stupas in China

Stupas in China

Another day, another two mountains. When we reached the Yangtze we thought we would be cruising down the river for a few days, but China 214 took a hard left into a narrow gorge where we found yesterday’s accommodations.

China's mountains cloaked in mist and clouds

China’s mountains cloaked in mist and clouds

We began this morning in the rain. The mountain ahead – a 1,000 meter climb – looked grim, with tatters of gray rain hanging from charcoal clouds. Rain dripped from our parka hoods, spray from trucks and small streams crossing the road had wet us thoroughly. We settled in to listening to Zippy creak and grind in the wet and grit.

We stopped often for moon cakes and Tang, our primary power sources these days, and plodded on at the reasonable pace of 6 to 8kph (about 4 to 5mph) for a couple of hours. The road made a switchback that took us away from the rain and we slowly began to dry. An hour or so later, we topped out for a few kilometers of descent and began another 500m climb, with rain threatening the summit.

Claire:
Our day was made sunnier by the friendly Chinese tourists foisting food on us. At one point, we had to reject a girl who was on her third trip to give us fruit and moon cakes. We were already loaded down with walnuts from this morning.

Chinese Village

Chinese Village

We also had a great exchange with some other bike tourists. David and Maria from Bilbao, Spain are going north. I felt bad that they seemed anxious about how high the climbs were and we couldn’t tell them anything encouraging; yes, there would be some very hard all-day climbs ahead. I know exactly how that feels, but during the climb it doesn’t seem so bad after all.

David gave us a map he would no longer need and I gave him my notes transcribed from Mark and Julie McLean’s great website: Mark-Ju.net. Julie’s detailed description through this last segment was spot on.

David and Marie from Spain

We are seeing some of the plants we all take for granted as garden plants here in the West, but originated here. It was Joseph Rock’s explorations in these mountains that began the garden boom in England, and subsequently the Western World. An English author read a story in National Geographic, and based his mythical Shangri-la on Joseph Rock’s cultural observations as an aside to his botanical work. So it is in quite a round-about way that the Shangri-la no-tell-motel on the seedy side of town is named “Shangri-la.”

Flower of Shangri-la, one-inch tall

Flower of Shangri-la, one-inch tall

Still Shangri-la?

Is this part of China still Shangri-la? For many of the people content to live the simple life of farm work and devotion to Buddhism, it still must be a peaceful existence. They watch the world pass and wonder at it, but have little desire to follow it to the cities. Of course, some of the young do follow China 214 to the city, and village life no doubt suffers for their loss. The outside world nibbles at the edges of their world, but so far makes seemingly minor inroads. We see a village high on the mountain as we pedal the China 214, and wonder at how they possibly can get up there, how they found a place to put a house – let alone a barn, and those terraced fields. A few hundred meters is a long way when the slope is 45 degrees.

Are they the healthy happy people who live long lives, as described in the novel? Their smiles indicate they are happy. As for their health, they must have strong hearts to navigate the near vertical hillsides all day – every day. Their sanitary systems are nonexistent, but they’ve probably adapted to some degree, and all consumed water is boiled.

Many of them live as my grandfather lived in West Virginia more than 100 years ago. He was still mowing hay by hand when he was 90 years old. He worked  with horses, had no electricity, went to the outhouse, ate pork every day, and died peacefully at home at 93.

Shangri-la? Not for us, but considering the challenges of modern life, and that American’s life spans are decreasing for the first time ever, perhaps there are lessons to be learned.

Claire took a nice video of a man dragging logs with a team of oxen that reminded us that we were in a world not wholly made up of diesel belching trucks, wildly driven SUVs, and kilometer long lines of tourist cars.

The National Holiday

We are in the middle of one of two national holidays in China. All Chinese who can afford it, and there are many more than four years ago, want to drive their personal autos to some tourist hot spot. We are entering the area defined by the tourist industry as “Shangri-la,” and it is apparently a prime destination.

We’ve had our picture taken so many times by so many Han Chinese, with their huge Canons and Nikons, that I am considering declaring us an official minority and charging for our images. One time it was a huge tour bus filled with photographers, wearing camera vests and sporting lenses larger than both of our cameras put together.

It gives me a new perspective on photographing people. When I was a photojournalist I often just charged into a group and began knocking off frames at a furious pace, with no consideration of the feelings of the people. I don’t have to do that any more. Now I ask, or am so unobtrusive that I don’t disturb the flow of their lives.

Claire shoots from the back of the tandem, and that seems to disarm people. We also get a kick out of the Chinese amateur photographers, scrambling for the best angle, jabbering away, finally waving and giving a thumbs up; it’s all road entertainment for us.

Shangri-la, The City

After a short descent to a large lake which seems to be a major tourist attraction, judging from the traffic jams, we again rode in the rain into the city of Shangri-la. Claire was surprised at the size of the city, and despaired of finding the guest house we sought. We finally found it, paying eight times what we paid the previous night for the privilege of hearing our neighbors, and choking on their smoke that seeps through the walls. The extra price is for arriving during the national holiday; the Chinese also pay the higher fee.

So far it seems like any other medium sized city, except there are many more hotels (all full). There is a tourist “Old Town” that we must see while we are here.

Iris in Shangri-la, China

Iris in Shangri-la, China

We’re off on a back road trip to Tiger Leaping Gorge. Claire says more mountains are ahead of us –  and no doubt some spectacular scenery.

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Meeting the Yangtze

httpv://youtu.be/c0vp0AkYaiU

You might wonder why we don’t find better accommodations? The next Bingwan was 84 kilometers, and 1500 meters up the road, a hard all day ride. Sometimes the basics seem awfully nice after a long hard day, with another one waiting.


October 3
Shangri-la is changing as we drop in elevation. The yaks are gone, replaced by mixed breed cows, sheep, goats and donkeys. The high meadows, empty of human habitation, other than seasonal tents, with sparkling air and clear water, have been replaced with terraced fields of crops, villages with substantial houses, roofs filled with drying corn and racks with hay. The people remain friendly and vocal as we pass, our unusual mode of transportation a novelty still.

But there is a change. The prayer flags, stupas and monasteries are fewer, the flags more likely to be tattered and faded, and the architecture increasingly Han and not Tibetan. There have been a few instances of architecture new to us, indicating we are entering an area of more diverse ethnicity. Groups of women walk in brightly decorated dresses and several varieties of head dress.

Today was a nearly perfect cycling day: the road was smooth, and mostly downhill, with just enough cooling upstream breeze. We had a few hills, but none were long. There were friendly people, cute donkeys and goats, spectacular gorge scenery, and all our official interactions at check stations were pleasant. I’m beginning to think we just got a couple of bad eggs, on edge because of the 60th anniversary of Communist China’s founding. The army was even guarding a bridge, complete with sand bagged bunkers, though they seemed relaxed, perhaps because the day, October 1, has come and gone without incident, as far as we know. Unescorted foreigners are still blocked from the Tibetan Autonomous Region, though that was supposed to be lifted this week.

Read the rest of this article…

A Thorn Tree Grows in Shangri-la

[httpv://youtu.be/CUH08hlrnbM]
This is the second time small Tibetan boys have stood at attention as we passed and held a salute until we released them with a return salute. We wonder what it means? Is it serious, or is is sarcasm reserved for foreigners and police and army?


October 2, Derong, Sichuan, China: A Thorn Tree Grows in Shangri-laBob:
We left Xiang Cheng, for another long day of climbing, our last over 4,000 meters. The road had a reasonable grade (we could maintain 7kph (about 4.5mph) and the surface was good bitumen. The views back down the valley to the monastery were spectacular and the few small farms blended organically into the vertical mountains.

Tibetan valley with houses

Tibetan valley with houses

At one curve in the road, a woman looked up from weeding her small orchard, and let out with an extended soliloquy on our presence, accompanied by a large smile. Her husband, walking in the road, waved us down, and eagerly suggested, in pantomime, the we join him for a rest under a shade tree. He too beamed with joy at the possibility of enjoying our company. We had a difficult (more than we knew) day ahead of us, and I pointed at my wrist and shook my head in denial. He persisted, and we went back and forth, all with smiles.

Finally we waved and pushed off, our 26 inch prayer wheels spinning out thousands of goodwill messages up his mountain; but I think we might have missed the point. The farmer and his wife live Shangri-la, not just in it, but they are Shangri-la. They are poor, but well fed, and the circle of their days allows for a break when tired, a visit with passing strangers, the rhythm of weeding, or wall building when they feel like it, and the song of bird and stream as accompaniment to it all.

We, on the other hand, have brought our schedule laden philosophy with us. We are here to SEE Shangri-la, not be it or live it. We have conquered her mountains, seen those living Shangri-la, but have not made the truth-based myth our own. Oh, we have absorbed much more than those black SUVs that pass us by the scores each day, carrying Chinese to possess for a holiday, their most exotic locations. At least we have the memory in our legs and lungs of the place; we have the images of the genuine smiles from the minorities directed to us as somehow kindred spirits. But will we bring it home with us?

Farm in China along river

Farm in China along river

Now for that thorn tree: As you will read in Claire’s note, there are many police in Shangri-la. As we have descended the Himalayas, the number of police posts on the roads has grown with one about every 50 kilometers. As we came up the eastern side of the range’s fingers, there were few posts, and they always waved us past, usually with a smile. Here it is different. We are still in Tibetan minority area, and very close to the border with the Tibetan Autonomous Region, where we assume they are expecting trouble. We were not able to go into the TAR as independent travelers, only as part of an organized group with a minder/guide. About a week ago, even that privilege was revoked for foreigners.

Police post in China

Police post in China

To me it seems at least a few of the police on this side have taken a negative tone with laowai (foreigners). Not all by any means, most perform your passport check professionally and even smile. But, after a beautiful descent of our last 4,000 meter peak, we came to a village where we understood there was accommodation. At the police stop, in the center of the village, one young man strutted back and forth of Zippy, regaling the growing crowd of mostly Tibetans with his apparently negative opinion of us. He particularly seemed to dislike the Tibetan prayer flag we had attached to the handlebar bag, and indicated his disgust with a sneer and a dismissive flip of the flag. He also told us the accommodation was no longer available, and through a translator, that we get a family to put us up, an unlikely possibility after word spread about his dislike of us. The locals fear the police. They don’t seem to be there to solve crimes, but to watch over the non-Han population, and make sure they have little contact with foreigners.

Claire Rogers and Lucky in tent

Claire Rogers and Lucky in tent

Tent camouflaged with branches

Tent camouflaged with branches

Valley and river in China

Valley and river in China

Claire getting water from a seep in China

Claire getting water from a seep in China

Tibetan couple

Tibetan couple

Monks on a motorcycle

Monks on a motorcycle

At this point we knew we would have to guerilla camp, and bought two chicken legs at a store, and got some stir-fried egg and tomato, a huge bowl of rice, and all our water bottles filled with boiling water. While we were eating, an old Tibetan man fingering his beads, came over, touched our prayer flag, nodded his head and smiled. There is a split here and it revolved along religious/ethnic lines. Only one side wears uniforms. This could get us thrown out. Yesterday, I had to help a policeman go through all the pictures on the camera Claire uses to shoot from the back of Zippy. He was a pleasant young man, just doing his job, but to an American, it was difficult to endure. Few countries have a First Amendment. Treasure yours.

We left the village for a 12 kilometer climb to an uncertain camping spot. The mountain sides are so steep, below the Plateau, that we had to camp on a power line road, in full sight of the main road. We used a few limbs to break up the contour of the tent, made sure headlights wouldn’t hit us directly, and we don’t think we were seen. Claire had a couple of disturbing dreams, but we both slept well.

There were two more encounters with the police, including a mostly pleasant one here in Derong. We hope this eases us; even though we are getting accustomed to the delays, they are not the delays we would choose.

Stupa in far SW China

Stupa in far SW China

Tibetan women carrying stacks of hay

Tibetan women carrying stacks of hay

Fall colors in China

Fall colors in China

Looking back down a Chinese Valley

Looking back down a Chinese Valley

Woman filling sacks in SW China

Woman filling sacks in SW China

The (renamed) town of Shangri-la (here it is pronounced Shan Ge Li La) is two days away. Stay tuned.

Claire:
We watched the National Day festivities on television last night. The hyperactive, color coordinated crowds rallied for the cameras and the massive, meticulously staged production was visible only to Party members with box seats and everyone in television-land. Our celebration of the day consisted of us wishing the police well on China Day, three different times. The roadside checkpoints only grew tiresome because our day wore on longer as we waited for our passports to be returned. One lone police man called us in to somewhere, browsed through the photos on one camera (he didn’t know about the other one), then after some tense effort to communicate, made it clear we were to check in at Derong, 40 kilometers down the road. At one checkpoint, the police seemed to laugh at us for interrupting their card game.

The festivities here in town consisted of ten minutes of fireworks a few meters in front of our hotel, but I think we were the only ones watching.

We’re enjoying the light traffic and rural roads of this steep mountain country, knowing that we’ll soon come back down to more densely populated areas. Here, the land is simply too vertical to support a large population and any relatively flat space is occupied or in use for growing food.  The thin, clear air has been good for our lungs and the stiff climbs certainly good for our legs.

Entering the Back Gate to the Garden of Shangri-la

[httpv://youtu.be/8WF3b_LdvJA]

We’ve called this often grueling trip from Chengdu, the Back Road to Shangri-la. A few days ago, we entered the high gate to the garden of Shangri-la. We topped out above 15,000 feet each day, and often stayed there for hours. We meandered the Tibetan Plateau, in company with yaks and Tibetans, surrounded by a landscape stippled with stupas, prayer flags, tiny wildflowers and singing mountain streams. Meadows of jade steepened up to fresh snow covered peaks, at least some days backed by a cobalt sky and cotton clouds.

At least one day was miserable with rain and we cut our day short, rain soaked and freezing, at an unheated roadhouse infested with Mahjongg playing and yelling, day off revelers. But those are not the things we will remember. We will remember the smiling Tibetan greetings of “tashi dele” from every roadside yak camp or a passing motorcycle, laden with bags of grain, and sometimes the whole family.

We will remember the hours long climb each day, each switchback revealing new wonders of high meadows and lines of blinding peaks. Then we begin the long descent through rock walled paddocks, friendly villages, and herds of yaks and deep gorges of evergreens, autumn coloring trees and roaring streams.

Do the people here live to very old ages? Are they always healthy and happy as the Shangri-la myth tells? No, they are mortals, increasingly invaded by the outside world, nudged into ways foreign to their culture and religion. But from the smiles on their faces as we pass, an exceedingly strange apparition from afar, the hearty waves and open-faced surprise, I know they are a happy people. We were told by one man that they don’t even think about the weather, no matter how bad, and it can be very bad! That tells me the Buddhist philosophy is real and alive in their lives. We’re not there yet, especially when it comes to weather!

So Shangri-la is in some measure real, at least here in the high meadows. There is much more to discover, much more to come.

Tibetan plateau

Tibetan plateau

Claire getting a hug

Claire getting a hug

Read the rest of this article…

Lucky’s High Pass

[httpv://youtu.be/Hz7nMKelW1U]

Lucky made it! I guess we can take credit for 16,000 ft. since we’re all on the same team.

We’ve been in the high meadows of the Tibetan Plateau, most days over 15,000 feet for hours; we have found the back garden gate of Shangri-la. Look for a longer post soon with lots of pictures.

Claire:
Poor Bob had to pedal by himself halfway to Sangdui because I was too busy kicking myself up the mountain. Can anyone tell me why one remembers something left behind only after you’re well beyond going back to retrieve it? My security blanket is gone, and it’s all my fault.

At the breakfast table, in the roadhouse where we spent the night, I left my packet of maps, phrases and our chopsticks. It was an envelope I clutched tightly anytime we were off the bike. Now, it was 30 kilometers back and 1000 feet down. We weren’t going back for it. So we’re without a good map until at least Shangri-la (Note: Bob was smart enough to photograph the road atlas pages, so we do have a backup). The phrases? I’ve mostly got down the basics enough to get us a room or a meal without my cheat sheets. And the chopsticks? Well, this is China.

Bob:
There will be more mountains to come, and some will probably seem harder than this one. Zippy is making strange noises from the drive-train, and we fear we have put him under too much strain this time.

We are sometimes tired, but feeling stronger every day. We’ve reached that magical three-week point in a long challenging bicycle tour, when we are in the zone, when we feel pretty much ready for anything.

The next post is one you won’t want to miss: we now know we have entered the high back garden gate of Shangri-la. The success was hard won, but all the more rewarding for the suffering.

It will be posted soon with lots of photos.

Loving Litang; a look back, a look forward

Tibetan woman spinning her prayer wheel in Litang

Tibetan woman spinning her prayer wheel in Litang

Bob:
We’ve been traveling two weeks now, but somehow it seems much longer. The Chengdu valley and the Tibetan Plateau are very different places, in landscape and people. Chengdu is a very large city of Han Chinese, and the Himalayan west of Sichuan is sparsely populated with Tibetans. Many people think of the Tibetan people and the Tibetan Plateau as being only within the lines drawn by the Chinese government, the Tibetan Autonomous Region. Both the Plateau and the Tibetan people are spread over several other provinces. The government  encourages Hans to move into Tibetan lands with various incentives, and by building new cities deep in formerly exclusive Tibetan lands. But the fingers of Himalayas we crossed to climb the Plateau, and the difficulty in building and maintaining roads, have kept this part of Tibetan land Tibetan.

We will now turn south, remaining on ridges of the Plateau for a few hundred kilometers, with at least one pass higher than any we have yet crossed, nearing 16,000 feet. Not far from here, the great rivers of SE Asia are given birth; the Yangtze and the Mekong are the two we will meet. We will cross the Yangtze as it turns north, and follow the Mekong south into Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. Here, these already powerful streams, are separated by just a few high ridges before becoming the two greatest rivers in this part of the world. Along their courses live one of the largest concentrations and most diverse collections of peoples on Earth. We will encounter many cultures and the landscapes that helped form them, and we will share what we learn with you.

These postings are a small part of the material we are gathering, and they will be expanded into a larger picture of the region, after we return home.

And now a brief look at Litang:

Monk at the Litang Meat Market

Monk at the Litang Meat Market

Litang is one of the few cities in China with a majority Tibetan population. We were told in Chengdu, by a resident experienced China traveler, that we would see a more genuine view of the Tibetan people on the route we were taking than the throngs of tourists going to Lhasa. It does seem that we see few laowai (foreigners) here and we haven’t seen any touts (“Hello friend! Let me take you to a wonderful hotel!”)

A Monk Detailing His Motorcycle

A Monk Detailing His Motorcycle

They are a rambunctious people, and demonstrative toward strangers. Their culture and religion seem more important to them than to most, and they seem eager to share it. We visited a chorten (stupa square) Baita Gongyuan, where a smiling man invited us to take a lap and spin the prayer wheels. There seems almost an element of play to the practice; Claire noticed the Tibetans were so fast that they lapped us.

Turning Prayer Wheels

Turning Prayer Wheels

The public market is lively and filled with interesting fungus, vegetables, fruits and sides of yak, with men arguing over the value of various cuts. There are various fried breads and all manner of hand-made and manufactured things unknown in the West.

We have enjoyed walking the streets and interacting with the people, more than most Chinese cities, and I will miss it when we turn south toward Shangri-la, still many kilometers and mountains away.

Claire:
While we wait out the rain that has not yet materialized, we’ve spent some time getting to know Litang. I feel more comfortable now than when we first arrived; it’s like arriving in a new country. The people look different, act different and it takes some time to acclimate to the change in culture as well as in elevation.

I’ve been learning to speak a little more Mandarin and was even able to say: “We have friends who (do) Mahjongg, but we can’t.” But now, my limited Mandarin is useless here and I had a very funny exchange today with a friendly Tibetan woman who guessed, through graphic gestures, that I was looking for a toilet. She led me, arm in arm; she was going to the same place.

Monastery

Monastery

Today, we walked up the hill to the monastery through traditional Tibetan neighborhoods. The monastery reminded me of San Xavier del Bac because of all the intricate detail being put into the renovations. Huge murals filled the walls, yet looking at them up close, we could see how fine the painting was. That level of detail went all the way up, so high that no one could possibly appreciate it up close, yet there it was. I’m sure the artists who painted it appreciated it. The entry to the main hall was in the process of being carved and was not yet painted, yet it was just as beautiful as all the painted woodwork. While we were looking at the large Buddha, some Tibetans came in with young children and began the prostration ritual.

Buddhist statue

Showing off for the Laowai

Showing off for the Laowai

They love their trucks, and decorate them.

They love their trucks, and decorate them.

Decorating his stoves: winter is coming.

Decorating his stoves: winter is coming.

At the market

At the market

Monster scaring laowai

Monster scaring laowai

Two young women enjoying the streets of Litang

Two young women enjoying the streets of Litang

Elation, Pain, Surprise; Part 3, Weary Pass

[httpv://youtu.be/Y2paEIc3ptU]

Not that day anyway…

September 24, Litang, Sichuan, China

Claire:
Neither of us slept very well through night with our Tibetan hostesses. We were grateful for a warm, dry place but I fretted about the rain, relieved to hear it stop, only to find it had turned to snow.  The snow stopped long enough for us to get started and we knew we had another 15,000 foot pass to get over, but it was hard to tell our elevation (we don’t have an altimeter on either bike computer).

With the sky socked in and lots more climbing, we were convinced we’d reached the pass even though neither the Tibetans acknowledged it with prayer flags nor the Chinese marked it with a sign. To us it was a pass, so we took photos, made a video and descended. The snow turned wet and the road muddy and we discovered we had more climbing. This time the pass was marked, with flags in one spot and with an official sign a half kilometer away.

For cyclists who know the great 30 to 50 mph descents we have in the western U.S., these are nothing like those. The asphalt is not up to the weight of the heavy trucks and the road is full of ruts and moguls so we have to keep our speed down to 20 kilometers per hour. At one point we were bouncing so much our sleeping bag and Thermarests bounced off into the muck (they were in plastic bags). We reached the end of one long downhill and could see a long climb ahead. My knees were stiff and Bob’s neck and shoulders were worn out from controlling Zippy. Neither one of us wanted to face that climb.

Yesterday, we’d passed what looked like a roadhouse with a big Chinese flag and here at the base of the climb was another one. I walked into what I thought was a restaurant and asked about a room. Yes, they had one, it was a storeroom with two cots: $6. There was no heat, water or electricity, and the short-drop was outside. Zippy’s secure parking spot was the meat locker that was the entryway to our room. Through gestures, the proprietor made it very clear we were to keep the meat locker door closed at all times, I guess to keep the cats and any loose dogs out.

We tried to regain some heat by curling up in bed for a while, then ventured out for dinner. That’s when we finally figured out all the people coming in were road workers; we were staying at a road maintenance camp. We ate what everyone else ate, a big comforting bowl of noodles and sat around the kitchen stove to warm up. I don’t know that it was really so cold, but we were still so chilled that we went to bed huddled together with Lucky in one twin cot with four fluffy comforters on top of us. We slept well in the very cold room; there’s a reason they store the meat there.

Zippy in the meat locker

Zippy in the meat locker

Read the rest of this article…

Elation, Pain, Surprise: Part 2

September 23: Litang, Sichuan, China

Shelter

Shelter

Bob:

In our last video post (scroll down and watch it first) we’d made quick work of a 7,000 ft climb to a 15,252 ft. plus pass, and were feeling pretty chipper considering the troubles other cyclists had encountered with the steep grades and high elevations. Our regular climbs of Mt. Lemmon (close to 9,000 feet elevation) in Tucson, had prepared our legs well, and we took enough off days for good acclimatization. After a nearly two weeks of our legs getting accustomed to the 80 pounds our so we carry, the climb was not as difficult as expected.

However, rather than the long descent to lower elevation for rest and a decent camp spot, we found the road stayed high, rolling up and down 1,000 feet or so as the weather deteriorated to rain, wind and sleet, and then climbing again. We knew that a night of rest at lower elevation would be essential for the next pass of 15,475 feet, but this was not to be.

Staying High

Staying High

We stayed high as the clouds lowered and the sky darkened. We were shivering from the wet and cold and the effort of the pass. We knew we had to find shelter, high altitude or not, and hope our light sleeping bag would be enough. We failed to find a flat spot; this is called the Tibetan plateau, but it is riddled with 1,000 to 2,000 foot mountains with steep gorges and very few spots flat enough for a tent. Just as we were about to give up and camp beside the road (not something we do unless in dire circumstances) we saw a Tibetan settlement, and decided to see if we could at least get water. We were low and there was only some snow to eat, and maybe find a place behind a house out of sight. We would have to sleep at well over 14,000 feet, but we needed shelter.

Warmth and Food

Warmth and Food

As we rolled up to a small stone house/barn, an older looking woman smiled at us and made the international sleeping sign: prayer hands laid next to her head bent sideways. Nothing ever looked so good to us. A young woman, whom we took to be her daughter, and her child were in their small barnyard with their small herd of yaks preparing for milking.

She motioned for us to bring Zippy into the house, which was on the bottom level, the barn. We leaned him up against the stone wall, unloaded our bags and followed grandma (we’ll never know her name) upstairs. Their living quarters was one large room with a small hearth and a cozy fire. There was not a chimney, but a stovepipe reached just as far as a roof hatch, and the space was filled with a blue haze of smoke that softened all shapes and colors.

Home for the Night

Home for the Night

The floor was rough cut slabs and the roof was supported by large log beams, but in the stone walls were set modern aluminum windows with latches. Various food items were drying on feed sack material and the beds were rolled up in one corner along with corn husk pillows. The hearth held all the pans they owned, and all the cooking was done on top of the fire. The daughter hurried up from her milking to prepare our meal and grandma sat and smiled at us and attempted to communicate.  She knew no Chinese, only Tibetan, and our communication was by pantomime.

Eating Yak Butter, Grain and Sugar

Eating Yak Butter, Grain and Sugar

First, we were served a liquid from a pot that seemed to have a permanent spot on the hearth. It was yak butter tea. It’s pretty much as its name describes: water, yak butter (lots), and a few tiny leaves of tea. Now this sounds awful, but we found it quite good, and warming after a trying day.

Snowy Morning

Snowy Morning

Our first course was a white crumbly substance that Claire likened to the curds we had in Wisconsin, only they didn’t squeak in your teeth as much and had a very fermented flavor. I looked over and I could see a large pile of what we were eating drying/fermenting on the floor near where we would probably sleep. We ate from a communal bowl, grandma first, showing us how with the fingers of her right hand (this is important to remember). We are not prone to insulting the hostess, so we imitated her. We both liked the unusual texture and fermented flavor. I could see uses for it in other genres of cooking.

Grandma prepared the next course while the daughter finished milking. She sliced potatoes French Fry style and fried them in a huge amount of an unidentified oil poured from a large plastic container stuffed with a rag. Then she added some water for a steamed finish. This was served with rice, and more yak butter tea. It was quite satisfying, and enjoyed with the company of a Buddhist monk who’d dropped in for a meal. Apparently you feed a monk when he shows up at your door, anytime.

After dinner, and another couple of rounds of yak tea, we both needed to relieve ourselves of some liquid, and asked (don’t ask how we asked) for the toilet, which we expected to be a short-drop, i.e. a shallow pit with weather shelter over it. Not here. We were pointed to the guardrail and over the hill to the village toilet. It wasn’t as bad as you might think. Such places in America are littered with toilet paper, the white of which announces each deposit. Here they do not use toilet paper. Remember how all the eating and touching of food is done with the right hand? Yep.

The next morning, just at first light Claire and I both felt a need and headed past the sleepy yaks, over the guardrail where we each found – recently at least – an unused bush. It had snowed overnight and we had two inches of something much better than toilet paper to use. Chilly, but refreshing.

During the night we slept like the family, fully clothed on the floor on light pads with husk filled pillows. We went to sleep to the sound of grandma reciting her prayers on her prayer beads. Breakfast was – guess what – yak butter tea, leftover potatoes and rice, and an addition – yak butter rolled in a mixture of rough meal and some sugar. Again, strange sounding, but good and filling. The little girl of three or so got her breakfast from mom, two teats worth.

Friends

Friends

Claire:

It sounds romantic: going to sleep to the sounds of chanting and waking to the sounds of milking. But these women’s lives are a gritty existence that our culture hasn’t known for generations. Hauling wood, water, and food up the ladder to the living space, making butter and curds, grinding grain, hand washing clothes, keeping the fire going, cooking… Mundane, routine, weather-dependent, smoke-filled and layered with years of grime. At first, we were both a little uncomfortable with their aboriginal way of life (we even took some Pepto-Bismol as a prophylaxis against any reaction to the yak butter). It’s kind of like going feral in Australia, at first, you try to avoid the bull dust, then you live with it, until finally it becomes your outer layer.

Wonder What She Thought of Us

Wonder What She Thought of Us

The five tiny calves at the bottom of the ladder were the future for these women. Their house was smaller than most in the village. I wondered where the men were? What would the little girl’s life be like? Would she get an education? Would she look at that post card of the horse those people on the bicycle gave her and realize someday what a big world this is? We used Bob’s jacket printed with a map of the world on it to try to convey where we were from, where we’d been and where we planned to go. I have no idea if they’d ever seen a map before. It doesn’t really matter to them, their world is an isolated village along a road between two passes and 50 kilometers from the nearest town. An occasional bicyclist may pass by their house or ask for shelter. To us, these women will always be a part of our world, and I don’t ever want to forget them.

What lies ahead as the yaks are put out to pasture.

What lies ahead as the yaks are put out to pasture.

Bob:

And it’s not over yet. We left the family as the snow began to melt, expecting the second 15,000 foot pass to be a few kilometers further since we had slept so high, and also expecting the weather to turn.

The Road To Shangri-la is not always what is expected.

High Places and Thinking of Food

[httpv://youtu.be/nvOFs5RroQE]

We get a lot of these surprise reactions from Chinese. These were at yet another pass, this one about 14,339, and a several hundred foot higher summit a few kilometers on. The road was nice all the way to the top, and looked like a beautiful 40 kilometer downhill from the top. It was not however to be; the road was severely frost heaved. It was fun at first to ride the moguls, but got old after a few kilometers. Here are some pictures from the day:

The Up

The Up

The Top

The Top

Lucky proving that dandelions grow everywhere, even at 14,339 feet in China

Lucky proving that dandelions grow everywhere, even at 14,339 feet in China

Lunch in Ya Jaing

Lunch in Ya Jaing

Claire: We’re getting to the stage where we think about food a lot, and we tried to make a decent dent in the big bucket of rice, but we failed to come close to finishing it. Yes, we’re eating pork now, or any kind of protein for that matter, and we eat whatever vegetables they bring us. At the grocery stores, we study and poke the packages and hope they’ll sustain us through a night of camping. Yogurt and cookies (a whole roll) is a before bed tradition of carbohydrate loading and we even bought Tang for our water bottles tomorrow. Wish I had some Cheerios, they always charge me up. If you’re out pedaling today or tomorrow, push a pedal stroke for us, we’ll need it; tomorrow; (tonight for you) we climb 7,000 feet to well over 15,000 feet and hope to get down in elevation to find a camping spot low enough to allow for sleep, before dark.

Highest Point: Continued

This is what the up was like on the last post. Visit the last post too.

[httpv://youtu.be/Xj1iS0PJH8c]

Though the mountain was crowded with lots of construction workers, it was somehow comforting to have some of the road crew trying to beckon us over to their fire to warm up. They didn’t seem to understand that our lightweight clothing was plenty for as hard as we were working but that we would cool down if we stopped. Much as we would have liked to have tea and a visit, we had to keep moving. We got many cheers, thumbs up, much misinformation and even a push from two road monitors.

A New High: A Layered Meaning

[httpv://youtu.be/q9s7Pusfssw]

September 17, Xinduqiao, China

Bob:
Yesterday we rode Zippy to the highest elevation ever for us. We started at 8,500 feet in Kangding and topped Zheduo Pass at 13,900 feet in 35 kilometers, or 21.7 miles, all under construction/repair. For our Olympic Peninsula friends, that’s like taking the Hurricane Ridge Road, raising the sea level start to 3,000 feet above the Ridge, loading 70 pounds on your tandem before beginning. Oh, I forgot, put 1,000 people and hundreds of trucks and equipment on the now gravel/dirt/broken concrete road.

We had some concerns about the rapid elevation gain from low Chengdu. Other cycle tourists had told stories of riding for a few meters, resting, pushing for a few meters before riding again because of the lack of oxygen. Others reported terrible headaches and lack of muscle strength.

Near the pass we were stopping for short rests every half kilometer or so, during extra steep sections. We had a little dizziness and mild headaches, in the steeper sections. We topped out in a good mood; although there were moments along the way of despair.

We dropped off into a beautiful Tibetan valley, unfortunately with only a few kilometers of newly paved road, and arrived in town much later than usual. We are taking another acclimatization day, at about 11,000 feet. There are some higher passes to come. Today we took a walk through the village and enjoyed the Tibetans in their beautiful land.

Claire:
I’m not sure which part was the most trying of the day; the construction was a nasty surprise, sometimes the route looked more like a mud track than a major highway. I asked directions more often than our Azeri taxi driver did on the run for the Georgian border. Going up into the fog was pretty demoralizing, partly because it was eerie and also because I didn’t want it to get as thick as it did on that Iceland Hellisheidi Pass. It didn’t, and ultimately may have been better for us because we couldn’t see how much farther up we had to go. Overall, the worst part may have just been the unknown, but really, that’s why we’re here, isn’t it? Dealing with whatever happens. We put ourselves here for just this type of experience, and though it can feel harrowing at the time, the intensity of the day becomes a part of us. In retrospect, yes it was hard, but for me, my resolve came from a continual mantra of: “We’re doing it, we’re still moving forward, we may be slow, but we’re doing it.” And both Bob and I kept good spirits and good strength the whole day through. We’ll need that for the 7000 foot climb to 15,000 feet soon.

Bob:
I’m not surprised that Claire touched on what I intended to end with. I am sure some of you new to our travels are saying to yourselves, “What would possess them to do put themselves through the things they do?” I’m pretty sure a lot of Chinese are saying that to us, we just can’t understand them!

Here’s a major part of the answer. Creating challenges for ourselves, and facing them together strengthens the bond of our marriage. Couples often allow the romance fade as the years progress. It’s easy to become immersed in career, children, differing interests and circles of friends, and put the partner in a secondary position. We said some vows nearly twenty years ago, and our habit of creating challenges for ourselves, and meeting them as a team, has helped us keep those vows, and kept the romance alive. We may seem crazy, but the rewards of our mutual struggles are great.

Stupa at first pass into Tibetan lands

Stupa at first pass into Tibetan lands

Into Tibetan Lands

The Himalayan foothills are turning vertical and Zippy’s long wheelbase and weight is making it difficult to hold a straight line, especially when a bus screams at us with its ear splitting high pitched horn, and the captain reacts toward the 100 ft. drop off into the river! So far so good, and the old reflexes will soon come back. The first weeks are the hardest, and these mountains are really really hard. We might have kept these mountains for the end of the trip when we are fit, but then the passes are snowed in; there is a typhoon approaching the coast, and we might get it even now. Hope not.

We have taken a day off at 8.000 ft. to acclimatize, catch up on getting some protein in; you have no idea how hard it is to get good quality protein in the small villages, and our bodies are craving it. Last night we bought a can of some kind of strange fish with a very strong flavor, and some black beans mixed in; wonderful. We have boiled eggs for morning and a bunch of greasy (tasty) pastries for the climb.

We are getting into Tibetan prefectures and seeing the dress and features of the minority population. After a 13,000 plus pass tomorrow, they will no longer be the minority. We are already seeing prayer flags flying, and old women turning prayer wheels as they walk, men dressed in huge leather cloaks with cowboy style hats and daggers. Everyone is friendly, and the air is finally clear!

Here are a few photos from the last couple of days:

Lucky Studies His First Prayer Flags

Lucky Studies His First Prayer Flags

Corn Husking Party

Corn Husking Party

Market Day

Market Day

Our Constant Companions

Our Constant Companions

A Few Minutes We Were Pedaling Up That Switchback

A Few Minutes We Were Pedaling Up That Switchback

View From Our Binguan

View From Our Binguan

Buddhist Rock Paintings

Buddhist Rock Paintings

Food

Food

First Pass, Chinese Cycling Friends, and a Long Tunnel

[httpv://youtu.be/57qJbzFAunE]

Last night at a basic binguan, we met three Chinese cyclists and they showed great interest in Zippy, our tandem. In the morning a larger group of their club friends arrived and there was round of picture taking and general language confusion, but lots of smiles. We saw the large group off up the mountain, had our breakfast and followed about a half-hour later.

We caught them 1,000 vertical meters later at the entrance to the summit tunnel to great exclamations of pleasure and another round of picture taking, with Zippy at the center. Lucky was busy flirting with one of the girls and got left out of the picture, again!

There were police and army personnel all over the place, protecting the tunnel no doubt, and we had to show our passports to be allowed through. We had heard horror stories about the tunnel, but found it reasonably well lit and smooth. As usual, when you worry, it is always unnecessary.

It was fun riding through with the large group and part way down the hill;  Zippy, is fast downhill and we soon left them. They are staying in the same town and we will probably see them tomorrow on a 5,000 ft climb to the next binguan and food.

They are a really sweet group of young people, all in their 20’s, and we look forward to seeing them again. Two different people in the group stopped at vendors and bought us apples. They all have nice looking mountain bikes with slicks and the most up to date clothing, so they are not poor.

It’s really fun to see the Chinese getting into bike touring and seeing their own country.

The Tea and Horse Route

Picking Tea in Sichuan

Picking Tea in Sichuan

We have been interested in the Horse Tea Route, Tea and Horse Route, and other translations, of an ancient trade route that rivals the Silk Road in importance for China and Asia. We first heard about it from a friend, Cindy, and wondered if our route would take us near the ancient route.  It must have been a slow brutal traverse of the Himalayas, from what we endured, in the foothills today on the “modern” route.

Horse, Symbol of Ancient Tea Horse Route, and Tanker Truck, Symbol of the Modern Route

Horse, Symbol of Ancient Tea Horse Route, and Tanker Truck, Symbol of the Modern Route

As we were leaving Ya An today, we saw some beautiful, larger than life, bronze statues of horses and men carrying heavy burdens. A sign nearby indicated that it was a memorial to the ancient route that took tea to SE Asia, India and Lhasa, in exchange for trade goods, and horses from Tibet. We are roughly following the southern route that was supposed to go to Yunnan (Shangri-la) and into present day Laos. We hope to find out more as we get deeper into the mountains. If we are lucky, maybe we will see a bit of the original.

For now, the modern route is challenge enough, with landslides, constant mud and water on the road, trucks, buses and all manner of smaller vehicles competing for a narrow deteriorating road surface, often with precipitous drops into a burnt sienna river raging with rapids. The captain’s shoulders are tired and the stoker’s nerves are frazzled.

Videos of our first days on the Tea and Horse Route

So many things go on during our days of pedaling that we thought it would be good to post a video of what we see in an average day so far. This is combined from three days, with lots left out!

httpv://youtu.be/b1s03widPPo

Goat to market

Goat on the way to market.

Lucky says he is not ready to comment on this bicycle touring thing, or China. His white is turning gray like us, and everything else here, and the rough roads are taking a toll. He’ll reserve comment until the mountains, soon. I hope the beauty of the high country wins him over, and ends his silence. Claire and I have done this a few times, but it’s all new to Lucky.

The locals in Ya’an make steep uphill signs, raise their eyebrows and exclaim when we tell them where we are going. One man, in elaborate pantomime, told me we should take a bus.

It’s all a bit unnerving, especially the idea of the four kilometer tunnel somewhere ahead, and the rain last night didn’t help. Ah the pleasures of the unknown. It always works out, somehow.

First Days

Bob:

September 8, 2009

Day One: Left Chengdu to parts unknown. Encountered difficulty: finding the right post office, getting our bank card to work, finding our way out of town. Visited a nice big plaza and took pix of Chairman Mao statue. Traffic eased as we got out of town, but were almost hit by a car coming onto the street from a side street. We both stopped in time. Then it got really, really hot and the humidity was killing me. We stopped twice and I chugged sodas; the sugar and caffeine kept me going for another half hour each time. Finally found a binguan after asking at least five times. Air conditioning! But nothing else works very well. Finally got hot water after dinner which was an epic. All we could find were streets filled with hot pot restaurants and they couldn’t really accommodate us for under 100yuan, and a lot of confusion. We weren’t that hungry.

Near a street market, we stopped for a meal of baozi, and met a nice family group and a regular customer. Lots of language issues, but lots of fun communication and laughter. The regular customer bought our dinner! We presented the family with business cards. Stopped for pastries to eat on the way back to the binguan. One was filled with sweetened squash! Wonderful.

September 9

Day Two: Went back to the same place for breakfast: two tea eggs, three jiaozi, two bowls of rice soup, and pickled vegetables: 5y or 70 cents for a great breakfast for two. Claire was made happy the one person who didn’t get a business card last night, and they all got to wonder at Zippy!

On the way out of town, one missed turn cost us about 3k, not too bad for getting out of a medium sized city.

We stopped at 39K. The heat/humidity index has to be over 100 because we are exhausted early; we have four months (or more) ahead of us, and some 12-15,000-foot mountain passes not many days away, so we need to ease into this thing! We should be getting into some cooler temperatures soon; today our closed plastic bags collapsed some, so we gained some elevation, but it’s still hot and humid, though the pollution is easing.

We would have done another 20 k, but are pretty sure the next binguan is 78k more. We’ll save that for tomorrow. We averaged less than 20k/hr even though there was much less stopping for traffic obstructions than yesterday. Today was riding near the edge of a 2m concrete drop/off into trees or an irrigation (empty) ditch. My shoulders and back are tired wrestling a fully loaded long wheelbase tandem. I’ll work into it.

I packed extra hex wrenches because I wasn’t sure I had all the sizes necessary to fit every hex bolt on the bike. Turns out I had, and I had probably 200g of excess baggage. We looked for a bike mechanic all morning and found one fixing an old bike for a waiting woman. I offered them to him, “I don’t want, do you want?” in Chinese (Wo bu yao, ni yao, ma). Claire knew how to say that! She keeps amazing me, and I keep using pantomime. At first he asked me how much I wanted, “Duo shao qian” (more money, less money literally). I told him I didn’t want any money, “Wo bu yao.” He looked a little confused at first, then happy. Those tools would have cost him quite a few bicycle repairs.

That little interchange, like many others we have on these trips, helps remind us how fortunate we were to have been born in a wealthy country. A small gift, like the reading glasses I gave the Uyghur man in far western China, or those hex wrenches, makes us realize how much we take for granted the little things that most people lack.

Claire:

Today, it only took asking once for a binguan – it was right across the intersection. Bob impressed the whole front office of the hotel when a woman dropped her scooter coming down off some steps and he was able to fix something that broke. I could tell they were also in awe as he muscled the fully loaded Zippy up the same steps.

I’m learning that, in this language, context is everything. So many syllables sound so similar, (and with four tones, my chances of getting the pronunciation wrong is 4:1) that mumbling single words doesn‘t seem to work. If instead, I can prattle off a full line of words, people seem to get the gist. I’m also trying to memorize just the sounds of the last few syllables of the questions people might be asking us. Otherwise, I just get a deer-in-the-headlights look on my face.

Saw three dead pigs today – two in the river and one in the irrigation ditch. I didn’t think pigs had the chance to die a natural death here.

On The Road to Shangri-la At Last

Bob: After five days of building up Zippy, visiting pandas, exploring Chengdu, we are leaving. Claire has been organizing route maps from the China road atlas Peter Snow – Cao  bikechina.com gave us. Peter has China bicycle touring company, but he bought us tea at a lovely tea house along the river, and shared information about our route. If you want to travel China with a guide, Peter is the man to contact.

We have enjoyed everything about Chengdu, except the poor air quality. Buildings across a single street have a blue/gray tint from the air. We will be glad to begin climbing the mountains, even if the stories we have been told about altitude sickness, harrowing long days for cyclists. There won’t be much air, but it will be clean at least! It will take us a couple of days to get across the valley and above the pollution basin. Then we will be in the mountains 10-15,000 feet for two or three weeks. We have already decided that we will need to extend our visas for China to leave time for altitude acclimatization and the usual, everything-takes-twice-as-long-in-China.

Lunch: Jiaozi, chilli sauce and spiced vinegar, with cold pejo (my spelling of how to pronounce beer).

Claire: I’m trying to eat more adventurously on this trip and so far, the spicy Sichuan food is very tolerable. Good thing Bob has had me in training for the last few weeks. (I’m beginning to absorb just how Sichuan food burns twice.) Tonight, we had mapo doufu, a regional tofu dish that is very spicy. We also actually did get green beans this time: wonderful crispy fried and salty. I’m sure our restaurant hosts thought we were out of our gourd for not wanting rice, but it was already more than we could eat and we hate wasting food, after all, there are starving children in America.

Those of you who know us and how we try to eat so healthy at home should know that our anti-inflammatory diet stayed stateside. We’re back on the see-food diet: we see food, we eat it.

I should mention here that Sim’s Cozy Guesthouse is very warm and hospitable. We got to meet Sim finally tonight and he was able to give us some good information, being a cycle tourist himself. He even gave Bob some Chinese herbal medicine for a rumbling gut. The amenities are great here and we fully appreciate that this may be the only place we’ll stay in that has in-room Wi-Fi.

Lucky: Leaving finally! I’m ready to rock and roll!

Pandas In China

My worst fears have been realized about not being able to connect to FB, or Twitter  I was told this morning that China is blocking social networking sites here in Chengdu, perhaps all of the country. Apparently this started about three months ago. Our FB friends can communicate with us directly by posting a comment at the bottom of the blog, just as if it were FB.

So far we are able to post on our own site, but we will be careful with words. Panda eating

We will still post still photos, and narratives of our travels. And Lucky will still be able to do his blog!

Lucky and a cousin panda

Today we went to the Panda Breeding Center to show Lucky his cousins; here’s his post:

What a day. My cousin pandas are big, even the babies are big, and they are always eating  something called bamboo. I hear my friends P-bear, Foster and Lai Lai talk about it, but they don’t eat either. The Chinese people are proud of their pandas. There were lots of Chinese there making flashes with little cameras and getting into the pictures. I got into  Bob and Claire’s pictures too. I think I’m prettier than those pandas. The old ones just laid on their backs and ate bamboo, but the young ones wrestled and pretended to bite and rolled around. One even slept in a tree. I guess they really are bears. Claire liked the babies best. I’m jealous. She coooed over me, but nothing like she did with the baby pandas! We even got to watch the bottom end of the baby feeding process. Evidently, baby pandas need lots of help with keeping their stuffing moving through and nurses are on constant display stroking tiny panda butts (theirs didn’t have tags that said Made in China). Bob and Claire cheered for that panda when he finally finished.

Claire: It was really fun to see so many pandas and yes, the tiny ones were really adorable, but the cubs, up to a year and a half were more fun to watch. In slow motion, they loll and wobble and tumble and wrestle. They gum, and paw and flop and blink and yawn. Every move they make is absolute innocence and honesty. With the adults needing most of their day just to feed, I don’t understand why the little ones, who are growing so fast, aren’t constantly hungry and lean. Their diet must be very rich.

The rest of our day was fun too. We rode into the center of Chengdu to meet with Peter Snow-Cao of Bike China Adventures http://www.bikechina.com/index.php. He was able to offer lots of very helpful advice about our route: he confirmed that it will be grueling. On the way home, we got lost three times, it was great.

Bob: Now I know why we get lost so much; Claire likes it. Hmmmm. Claire shot another video as we wove through traffic on our way home. Per the above problems, it will be awhile before you see it, but worth the wait. Most of the people we ride with in Tucson will know that I prefer hills to flat traffic rides, but that I have a fair amount of testosterone for an old guy. Well, there is something about Chinese traffic, chaotic, crazy, dangerous, that brings out the old mountain bike racing instincts and skills from twenty years ago. I get into a zone and we merge with the throngs. I absorb the pattern of traffic flow, read “body language” and know when to challenge the cabbie, and when to track stand and let him pass. It is thrilling and calming at the same time, and I can’t get enough of it. I could do without the deepening cough I get from the horribly polluted air, but it will only be a few more days before serious elevations will have me wishing for air of any kind, polluted or not. Peter says our, now generally set, route through Tibetan cultural area (better than Lhasa he opines) will reach elevations of 15,333 feet at least. Yikes.

Sichuan foodTonight we tried another of the family fandians in our local hutong, and had even more fun than before. This time Claire took photocopies of food pages from a travel guide so we would have some idea of what we were ordering. We ordered fish and green beans and eping pejo (they are big and we share) When the fish dish came it was huge and loaded with all the things I love, garlic, chillies and ginger, also tiny bones and the head and tail. The strange head meat (brains?) was tasty. When the green beans came they were peas. Oh well, 50% isn’t bad. Everything was delicious. There was a general loud banter between the staff, regulars and the lao wai (foreigners). Everything we did was watched with general approval of our eating style. One other diner loudly proclaimed that Claire was very good with chopsticks, and better than me. True.

Life is not easy for most Chinese, the average wage here is about 10 kwai ($1.46) PER DAY. Our expensive, for them, dinner this night, because of the protein, was about $6. We made their day. Our average daily expenses so far in China, $29 including the panda tour and special van from the airport. Travel doesn’t have to be expensive to be fun.

Chengdu, China

Bob: We’ve arrived in Chengdu, China.

claire working on zippy lucky and zippy

Despite jet lag we got Zippy put together with a couple of problems that were solved with a little patience and some muscle. Lucky was particularly helpful, supervising and giving encouragement. We went riding around town today, and it is crazier than Beijing, more like Baku, Azerbaijan. We attract quite a bit of attention on the tandem, something they appear to have never seen.

first dinner in chengdu

We were starving on arrival and went wandering for food around our backpacker hotel, which serves mainly Western food to the less adventurous youth. We saw a hutong (alley) and it reminded us that the best food we found in Beijing was in hutongs. We saw an inviting pile of vegetables and were drawn by a cute girl working the street in front of her family’s three table fandian. We pointed at some noodles and green beans.  They brought us paper cups of  boiling water, for sterilization, and I ordered a beer for us. Both no name dishes were wonderfully spiced (dried juniper berries in the green bean dish)  and the heavily hopped Chinese beer was  just as good, and cold, as I remembered it. Total cost for dinner and beer, $2.19

From Claire: I’m hoping our taxi ride from the airport was the most adventure we’ll have on this trip. Sure, Bob was having fun in the front seat–he had a seat belt. Zippy and I clung together for dear life in the back seat of the van. For the driver to have hit a bicyclist on our way from the airport would have been very bad karma all around.

It is odd how the very distinct smells (all except one) are somehow comforting because now they’re familiar from our first trip. Mostly food, but also some incense and lots of other unknowns. And my ears perk up to the language, trying to pick out recognizable words. Already, I’ve found there is an accent to deal with, so that’s why, once again I’m not picking up much of what people are saying. I feel a lot more relaxed this time, we got a good night’s sleep last night and Zippy is back in one piece.

Bob: While Claire was in a grocery today, reacquainting herself with the joys of shopping when none of the packaging is readable, I stayed with Zippy and had a conversation with a Chinese man. He was middle aged, a bit soft looking, in white t-shirt, black shorts, black socks and black shoes. He asked for a light for his cigarette. I think he was testing me, because he immediately produced a lighter when I indicated I didn’t smoke.  Odd to shrug my shoulders in apology for not smoking! Then he asked my age. I knew because it happened so often on our Silk Road Crossing in China. We each drew out our ages on a bench, and used finger counting.  He was 53, and showed shock that I am 65. Then he wanted to see how hard my legs are, a reaction to Zippy as usual, and even went so far as to make me flex my arms for him, and he slowly traced my large veins down my biceps and forearm. I suspect he doesn’t have such good circulation. He complained about the pollution (bad) in Chengdu, between deep draws on his cigarette. He was just curious about me, and not shy about it; Chinese seem to be so shy that they pretend not to see you, or get very personal. All this was sign language, helped along by Claire when she arrived.

Then we had an exciting ride back to the bingwan. Now it’s time for dinner. What unknown dish will we have tonight? I’m ready for that cold pejo!

Zippy is ready to roll!

Zippy shrink wrapped and ready for China. The wheels are in two other boxes, along with tools and sharp objects, a third bag will carry tent and sleeping bag for the high mountains. We’ll carry cameras and the computer in …

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The Kimberly in NW Australia, at risk from oil spill

We rode our tandem a few thousand kilometers across and through the middle of Australia, through the Kimberly, in the far northwest. The Kimberly region is the size of California with 41,000 residents. Think of that. We rode for two to three days without seeing human habitation. There are bulbousbaobab trees and bush fires on the land, crocks and huge snakes in the billabongs and camels stomping around the tent in the night. Lovely.

We arrived in Broome probably the most remote town in the English speaking world, just in time for our anniversary, so it holds a special place in our hearts. The coast there is like all the coasts in Australia, spectacular. But the Kimberly coast is special for it’s remoteness and the austere red rock beauty and beautiful, but often violent weather.

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Lucky Inspects Claire’s Pannier Repairs

The bags are going to look like a clown pretty soon, if she keeps putting on patches. I asked Bob why they don’t get new bags. He said they are sentimental about the bicycle and the bags. New would be nice, he said, but these bags have memories; every tear and scuff has some meaning to them.

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Shangri-la: Journey into Myth, search for Reality

Stupa at first pass into Tibetan landsOur original blog articles are now arranged chronological sequence. The first article appears on this page. Simply follow the sequence by clicking another article from the page boxes at the top and bottom of each page. You can leave your comments to each article by clicking the “Replies” link located at the bottom of each chapter.


The British author James Hilton published a small novel in 1933. He was no doubt shocked at the widespread repute the location of his fictional sacred Utopian kingdom would achieve, and the misuse that would subsequently occur. spaceman slot

Las Vegas to Shanghai, luxury hotels, and the no-tell motel in the seedy underbelly of thousands of towns, have expropriated his fiction. Shangri-la is the idea of a magical place where people live long happy lives in perfect bliss. All of these places, even the most plush, fall short of the dream.

Whole countries have laid claim to the title, and all but one are fabrications. James Hilton’s Shangri-La is not in Bhutan, Nepal, or Myanmar, but in China; in Yunnan province of the Tibetan cultural region of the eastern most ranges of the Himalayas. Here the great rivers of Southeast Asia begin with trickles, explode into violent torrent, gather into the mighty forces of nature to embrace one of the most dense populations on Earth, and to eventually braid out across huge fertile deltas from Shanghai to Myanmar. judi bola

Misty Morning in Shangri-la (Claire)

Misty Morning in Shangri-la (Claire)

Amazingly, Hilton was not a traveler. He got his inspiration from the National Geographic which published the explorations of the botanist, philologist, Joseph F. Rock, who spent years in northern Yunnan. The collection of plants was Rock’s primary mission, but he also documented the local Tibetan cultures. Rock’s plant collections are said to have sparked the, now ubiquitous, exotic garden craze in the United Kingdom and beyond. Hilton grazed from this material the fictional beautiful and perfect place. slot deposit qris

Shangri-la, and surrounding mountains, hold most of the minorities of China, and are one of the last holdouts from complete domination by the Han majority.

The unique southerly curve of the Himalayan range at the east end, allows the valleys to funnel warm wet monsoon clouds to extremely high elevations. This makes for a fecundity of plant and animal life found nowhere else in the great stretch of the Himalayan range all the way to Central Asia.

Claire and I crossed the Tien Shan mountains of far western China on our Silk Road Crossing. They are the western ending of the Himalayan range in Central Asia. This trip we hope to cross the far eastern part of the Himalayan range, in our search for the real Shagri-la.

What will we find? Well, as with the Silk Road, fantasy and reality are not the same, but in Asia, reality is always fascinating and alive, always challenging and rewarding. bonus new member

From Yunnan we plan to ride into Laos, then Vietnam, where Claire was born, Cambodia and end our journey in Thailand, after about four months.

We hope you will come along with us, here on our New Bohemians site as we begin in Chengdu, Sichuan, where the great earthquake devastated the region and killed thousands. From what we know of will and energy of the Chinese, the people are recovering. We hope so. We’ll visit some pandas of course, along with our Lucky, and then attempt the mountains, monsoon snows, and vagaries of Chinese Communist bureaucracy allowing us to make the trip. Wish us well and then bookmark and follow us on our unusual, and no doubt enlightening, quest documented on this site.

On the road again soon: Shangri-la and Beyond

We leave September 1 for Chengdu, Sichuan, China to begin a tandem bicycle tour of SW China and SE Asia. We begin in Chengdu, Sichuan, where the earthquakes killed thousands last year. We will visit some pandas and probably visit our first important Buddha statue before heading into high country where the Himalayas transition from the Tibetan plateau, giving birth to all the great rivers of SE Asia. After a long crossing into Yunnan, we will drop into the sub tropics of Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and end probably in Bangkok, one of our favorite cities.

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Unsung Heroes of WWII; the distaff side. About time!

More than 1,000 Womens Air Service Pilots, WASPS, served important and often dangerous missions testing and delivering the aircraft that would fly over Germany and Japan. Seventy-nine of them were injured or killed during the war. They were central to the war effort, yet had to buy their own uniforms, and they took up collections to return bodies of their fellow WASPS home after a death. They of course were all volunteers.

After the war, they were rejected by the American Legion, The Veterans of Foreign Wars, and the Veterans Administration, and as they aged, they were denied veterans benefits. Finally Barry Goldwater stood up for them in 1977. It is estimated that 300 to 400 are still alive.

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Georgia on My Mind Again

in our single hard bed room, I drink a cheap Georgian beer and gaze out the window at the Soviet era apartment block through the waning rain and gathering gloom. It is a tableau of a former, not yet liberated, life under Communism: clotheslines, mops, jugs of home-made wine, rust-bleeding concrete balconies; a babushka beats on something like wool, shreds it and hangs it to dry; a woman finishes hanging clothes, they sag the line in the soggy air; another babushka drinks wine and eats bread and stares into the mountains drifting with shards of stringy charcoal cloud; an old man limps the short length of his balcony repeatedly, as if exercising, indomitable spirit;

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Lucky Has A Think: Respect yourself and others will respect you

I had another of those funny think things. “Respect yourself and others will respect you.” I asked Claire what that word respect means. She took a long time with her thinks before she said something. “Respect means you think well of someone, and that you trust what they say is what they will do.”

I think these thinks are coming from someone else. I’m not that smart by myself. It’s probably not a panda. We just think about bamboo. I wonder if it is a China person? Does anybody know who thinked these thinks first?

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Bob and Claire Rogers, The New Bohemians

We chose the New Bohemians moniker as descriptive of our unique lifestyle: adventure travel, creativity, self-reliance and frugality. For twenty years, we have lived life as if our time here is limited, has an end unknown to us. Many give the idea fleeting thought, but fear the idea and push it aside. We embrace it.

We are not the anti-social hedonists many associate with the name Bohemians. Anyone who has followed our adventures knows we don’t avoid challenge or discomfort. We get our high by pushing our bodies and minds in pursuit of creative living, travel, and intimate connection with the World and it’s peoples. That is the New in New Bohemians. Many people searching for our site found instead a folk rock band, Edie Brickell and The New Bohemians, since they had the .com long before we conceived of a web presence. They’re a laid back group with a great sound and meaningful lyrics you can actually understand.

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Lucky Ponders His Return To China

They said no, my passport was the take on my butt that says, “Made In China.” Bob was working on that funny long bicycle with two seats they have out in the 108 degree heat today. He said he had lots of work to get, Zippy he calls it, ready for the rigours of Asia travel. Hmmm. I wonder if I’ll like that thing he calls rigours?

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Precipice Trail in Acadia National Park

The Precipice Trail in Acadia National Park has the reputation of being a very difficult trail, almost a technical climb. The Park Service paints it as such. However, anyone who has a normal sense of exposure to heights, a moderate level of fitness (be honest) can achieve a significant goal by climbing the trail. The view from the top is fantastic, and much more rewarding than Cadillac Mountain, for the individual having got their by muscle power. Give it a go!

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Lucky Helps Cook Dinner With A Solar Cooker

I helped cook dinner in Claire’s solar cooker yesterday. Today I’m watching cookies bake in her solar oven, but that will be another blog. It’s a hot job, but better me than Bob and Claire, because they sweat and stink if they stay out too long in the 105 afternoon heat. et up the solar cooker (Claire made hers from a windshield shade and Velcro) in a funnel shape in full sun (duh) and out of the wind if possible. Put spelt, water and salt in baking dish, place inside a baking bag and close tight with twist tie; set in solar cooker. Check spelt after a couple of hours (bad choice, other whole grains cook much quicker); when done, add vegetables and spices. Adjust liquid with chicken broth or water, cook until vegetables are getting tender. Add salmon and cook until opaque.

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Another Lucky Think

Another think came to me. This one is long. I think I like it. When I told it to Bob and Claire, they looked at each other, smiled and hugged a little hug. I think they know about wheresoever and go and heart too.

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Lucky Has Another Deep Thought

My head fluff is acting up again. I’m doing more of the think thing. I kind of like this one, since I’ve been seeing really pretty country lately. But I know I didn’t think this by myself. Somebody really smart thought this first. Bob and Claire think I’m a smart panda, but I think I think these thinks are coming from another place. I wonder where?

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Lucky and the Cumbres Toltec Scenic RR

We sure have been having adventures in Colorado. Bob and Claire wanted to ride up some big hills they called passes, and they promised a surprise for me at the top. At first I was scared. It was loud and made lots of noise and black and white smoke. Now I want to ride a train.

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Lucky’s Blog: First Thoughts (A Continuing Tale of a Panda’s adventures)

“I hear and I forget. I see and I remember. I do and I understand.” a person (or panda?) really do stuff, rather than hear about it or see it. He said it is the reason they travel, and hike and bicycle, instead of watch other people do stuff on television. I think I remember such a thing from my other life. The people were always sitting in front of it and not talking much. They might have doing this thinking thing, but I couldn’t tell.

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Lucky’s Blog (A true tale of one panda’s adventures in serial form)

They have hinted that I will be going with them to China to ride their tandem bicycle, Zippy. First they say I need to learn a little about riding a bicycle. We’ve been practicing. They breathe hard a lot, and go scary fast sometimes. They helped me make this video to show you. Do you think this looks like fun?

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Lucky’s Blog (A True Tale of One Panda’s Adventures, In Serial Form)

Bob and Claire told me my life with them would be adventurous. The next day they began to show me how to ride a bicycle. Something about China and bicycles seems to go get them all excited, and it looks like I might be a part of what they have planned.

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Lucky’s Blog (A True Story Told In Serial Form – Stay Tuned)

as she and Bob sped past in Turtle, that’s their motorhome’s name, and she announced that a bear rescue was required. Bob and Turtle reponded with a fast U-Turn and the next thing I knew, I was looking out Turtle’s windshield and feeling safe.

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The Wave, and Beyond

We spend most of the day scrambling all over the drainage that contains The Wave, which is itself quite small, and added another couple of tough steep miles. There is a small arch high on a cliff above The Wave, and we determined to get to it for our lunch spot. After a few dicey moves and an hour or more of climbing, and pausing for photos, we made it

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Birthday Ride to Cape Royal

Claire and I rode our road bikes to Cape Royal at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon on my birthday. It was a hilly 45 miles ride all at 8000 feet or more. We were the only bicyclists on the road, but there were many motorcycles. One group of three guys from Italy were impressed that we were managing the ride.

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Memorial Day Thoughts

When I was growing up in rural West Virginia, what we now call Memorial Day was Decoration Day. A few days before, the family went to the community graveyard (no fancy names then) with mowing scythes, rakes and grass clippers. We’d tidy up all the family grave sites, clean the moss from the stones, and then work on any abandoned graves, try and remember who they were.

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Health Care Crisis

By Claire Rogers President-Elect Obama’s Transition Team has asked for public input regarding the health care crisis in America. We recently hosted a community discussion on the subject and we got an earful. A recurring theme held strong among the …

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We are sad for Gori, all of Georgia; we were there…

In another small town to the west, we were welcomed into a graduation party by a group of teens, watched them dance traditional Georgian folk dances, enjoyed the beauty of the town and surrounding countryside.

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