Chanute is a Hoot!

One of the best things about boondocking in city parks on the Great Plains is watching a girls softball game as the sun lowers.

Earlier in the day we managed to get in a 47 mile ride, only one section of a square with a tailwind. We decided we had earned a stop at a the Cardinal Drug soda fountain when we got back to Chanute. I got a big one, and it was a whopper. We had been disappointed earlier in the day when we discovered Erie, a small town where Claire had expected to find a new-to-us old fashioned soda fountain, had been torn down, a new building built and the fountain was now just a non-working display at the new high school. This is happening more and more often. The machinery, the marble tables, the back bars, still exist, but no longer have a purpose, and soon there will be no one alive who knows how to make a real soda or Green River. However, in Chanute, the two young girls waiting on us made excellent sodas (cherry for me, strawberry for Claire) at Cardinal Drugs, using the proper wrist action and a perfect balance of fruit, soda and whipped cream. Oh my. Nothing like it on a hot humid day. We had been there on a soda-fountain themed tour of Kansas several years ago, and we were happy to find this one unchanged.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Where we camp.

When we travel in Turtle, our motorhome, we seldom stay in RV parks. Nothing  personal. Yes, we are frugal, but that’s about ten percent of the reason. RV parks are in business to make a profit by providing electrical hookups, sewage, water, sometimes cable television, and usually weak wi fi. They squeeze you in with other RVs, remember their purpose is not your pleasure, but their profit; perfectly reasonable. This is not a problem for most RVers; they want to know they are safe, won’t run out of water, electricity, or miss their favorite television program. For us however, those things are not the reason we travel. We travel in Turtle for many reasons, none of them have anything to do with maintaining a normal “home” environment; for that we would stay home, which by the way is an RV park we call home in Tucson for several months in winter.

Our first boondock, bush camp, on this trip was a favorite hidden spot in the White Mountains of Arizona. It’s high, over 8,000 feet, and cool, just far enough from the highway so we are hidden from easy view. We have it to ourselves; the squirrels and birds share it with us. We could easily spend a month there, and may someday.

In New Mexico, we returned to a former bush camp near Soccoro, but drove a few hundred meters further completely out of sight of the road. It was quiet and a bit warm until sunset, but the dry air cooled quickly and we had a great sleep.

Sometimes we can’t get out of sight of the highway. In the Oklahoma panhandle, the sun rapidly setting, getting tired and hungry, we found a roadside rest/highway equipment storage spot, beside a busy truck route and railroad. Despite the noisy location, we slept well and actually came to enjoy the regular sweep of light and rumble from the trains and trucks. Something about low frequency sounds can facilitate sleep. Our next site is of a type we particularly enjoy in the Great Plains and Midwest: town park sponsored RV parking.

In Greensburg, Kansas the city park, pool and ball fields, has several grass sites, with electricity. We enjoyed watching young baseball hopefuls practice, until darkness, thunder and lightning sent them home. They pay attention to the skies here: Greensburg was destroyed by a tornado a year after we had visited on a Zippy (our world traveling tandem) on a short soda fountain tour in 2006, another story, coming to this site soon!

After two days of exploring the rebuilding of Greensburg, and enjoying a great bike ride across the windy prairies, we moved on for a half day drive toward Missouri. Claire found a wonderful Kansas fishing lake and we got the best spot possible, just a foot or so above the lake level, close to the hopeful fishers in their little aluminum punts. The birds serenaded us as we sweltered in the increasing humidity. Finally our little exhaust fan pulled in enough cool wet air to allow us to sleep; we awoke at nearly 9am! The cool of the morning and busy birdsong made breakfast special. 

So, just a taste of why we travel as we do. We’ll have more such spots to share as our travels continue throughout the summer.

On the Road Again…

We’re on the road again! (Forgive us Willie for our howling rendition of your signature song) Not by tandem bicycle, or sailboat, or Amazon riverboat, but our comfy motorhome, Turtle. We’ll be seeing America by the backroads, stopping at special places: our hometowns, places with memories like Greensburg, Kansas, and especially, places we’ve never been before.

We’ll follow a couple of minor themes all the way; fun times and bike rides, and also special Turtle boondocks; places we find to hide away, to eat and sleep and … Mostly they’re free, though we’ll pay a few bucks for a public fishing area, town park or forest service campground.

In the first week, we found two new bike rides of just over 50 miles; fun and challenging in very different ways:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first ride was 51 miles in the beautiful White Mountains of north central Arizona, one of our favorite places to hang out when the temperatures in Tucson decide to stay in triple digits for a week at at time.

The triangle ride begins at the intersection of 260 and 273 near Eagar at a little over 7,000 feet in elevation. We headed west on 260 into a brisk wind and climbed to well over 8,000 feet, where at about 16 miles, we turned south east on 261. The recently paved road closes a triangle between Eager, Big Lake and 260. The new road is smooth with minimal traffic. It winds through high meadows, from about 8500 to over 9,000 feet, and crosses the upper reaches of the Little Colorado River. Even though the distance was moderate, we really felt the altitude on the hills.

At Big Lake the route turns left on 273 back to Eagar, through more rolling high meadows where we saw a few pronghorns. This area was at the edge of the giant Rodeo fire a couple of years ago, but the burned areas are patchy, and interesting against the seas of blonde grass, bright green aspens and cobalt sky.

The last few miles are a gloriously fast, serpentine descent that will test your nerves and sharpen your cornering skills.

This is a new ride for road bikes, and worth a trip. It would make a great road race. Nearby Eagar and Springerville have all the services, and there is great camping in the National Forest along ride.

The second ride we took was from Greensburg, Kansas (more in a future post), is an out and back. All rides in Kansas have one thing in common: wind. You either ride with the wind first, and suffer on the way back, or the reverse, which makes sense to us. The winds are so hard usually that I couldn’t imagine fighting a side wind both ways. I guess you cold do a square (there are only right angle roads in Kansas) but most of those would be 100 miles or more, and involve 50 miles of headwind. Someday.

We rode south from Greensburg into a moderate wind in the morning to the small town of Coldwater, loaded up on drinks and carbs, and returned in the early afternoon blown along by a stiffer breeze. That strategy was planned, and made for a fun ride through the low rolling wheat and corn fields. At times we were maintaining 22 miles per hour uphill. The scenery wasn’t exactly as spectacular as Arizona, there were as many oilwells as trees, and we only saw one red tail hawk. We could see Greensburg’s wind farm for 20 miles, breaking the rolling horizon.

How Soon We Forget: Tibetans Still Die
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As each week passes word comes of another self-emulation in Tibetan lands of China. Many are young monks, and more and more are women. The grief they must feel for the slow loss of their culture is unimaginable to me. In our tandem travels across Tibet, we saw the government’s attempts at subjugating the Tibetan culture by smothering their lands with emigrants from the Han majority:

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